Cycling for Trust in America

Epilogue, Park City, UT, October 27, 2009

2009-10-27T10:20:00.000-07:00

Dear Friends,

The journey completed, back home in Utah, looking out the window with the snow falling gently announcing the early coming of winter, I sit and reflect on the deep well I have drunk from as I rode across this immense land.

My thoughts go out to each and every one of you who have made such a difference in people's lives and who have been so kind to me along my path. Thank you so very much for all you are and all you do. I am very touched and blessed.

I turn to the business now of asking for your support: not for me, but to those less fortunate and in need of progress and movement in their lives. At the outset of my trip I believed that I would raise funds for several charities. I have since narrowed down my choices and selected a very worthy one, The Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation, to be the recipient of your gifts.

This is often referred to as "the giving time of year", and I am sure that you are receiving multitudes of requests to donate to all sorts of worthy causes. I would like you to consider my donation page to JDRF as one of the choices that you choose to give to. The charity performs good work in both the research for a cure for Type 1, juvenile, diabetes, as well as support activities and work for the children and families of those struggling to manage this potentially devastating LIFETIME disease.

I have an ambitious fundraising goal of $20,000 to meet, but I believe the goal is met one donation at a time, so I ask that you please consider giving what you can to this worthy cause.

Again, to donate to JDRF, please CLICK HERE!

As you ride through life: May the sun shine upon your shoulders, all your days be fair, the wind at your back and the grade downhill!

With warm regards,
Lee

Day 74 Hallowell to Rockland, ME

2009-09-18T20:04:00.000-07:00

Day 74-75 Hallowell to Rockland to St. George, ME
September 18-19, 2009
55 Miles
3542 total miles

Last day... Woke up to a stellar breakfast hosted by Tom Warner in the B&B. Stellar in every way, as the fruit tray was cuttingly careful cuisine arranged in a six-pointed star (see adjacent picture). Tom left his job with NOAA and the National Hurricane Center in Miami to return to his home state of Maine and has opened the Benjamin Wales B&B in this historic mansion. Reading through a history of the house and its inhabitants over nearly 200 years gives one a sense for the changes in this local economy through the technological changes of the 19th and 20 the centuries. The home was occupied at various stages by merchants and sea captains, ice-cutters and scions of famous Maine families. Among the notables was Algernon Sidney "Sid" Washburn of the famous Livermore, Norlands, Maine clan of Washburns. Sid was one of the successful to stay closer to home as a merchant and financier, founding a local bank. His brothers went on into politics, military and enterprise during the westward expansion of the United States, reading like a "Who's Who" of mid- 19th century statesmanship, with elected members to the US House and Senate, Governor of Maine, Secretaries, ambassadors and founders of companies such as the Soo Railroad and Gold Medal and Pillsbury flour companies. Interesting to spend a night in a place where, if only the walls could talk, the stories they would tell!

Visited Slates bakery for an extra cup of Joe before leaving town on the Kennebec Rail Trail Bike path towards Gardiner. Crossed the great Kennebec River at the Gardiner Bridge and headed on the back road towards Togus, taking the Winthroproad cut-off, which saved me several miles and dropped me onto Route 17 just before Windsor. At that point I rode wide-shouldered Route 17 all the way to Rockland- up and down many hills along the way.

I arrived in Rockland around 4:30, in time to seek out the local synagogue, for tonight is Erev Rosh Hashana, and I wanted to attend services here. It was something of a fluke that my trip ended on this day, auspicious or not, I decided to celebrate the end of my journey and the beginning of the next, whatever it may be. After cleaning up at brother Tom's, I made my way back to Adas Yoshuron Synagogue and was very glad to find it, as the service was truly one of the most moving I have ever attended. Even though I don't know any Hebrew, the prayer book, or Machzor, was a helpful guide to the liturgy and the English translations in it, where available, made the ceremony full of meaning for me. The hauntingly beautiful music, celebrated by the congregation's choir, was wonderfully performed 19th century polyphony and harmony, sung a capella. One of the choir's founding members shared with the congregation the story of how much of this music made it to Rockland via her grandfather and father who were accomplished musicians and cantors practicing these traditions. A program of inclusion is practiced here and all are welcome to attend services. I felt very welcome in this community and would love to visit again some time.

L'Shana tovah everyone!

Tomorrow I spend some time with my parents, friends, and with brother Tom who has a gallery opening at the Carver Hill Gallery tomorrow.

Days 72-73 Hanover, to Rumford to Mexico to Hallowell, ME September 15-17, 2009

2009-09-18T15:19:00.000-07:00

Days 72-73
Hanover, to Rumford to Mexico to Hallowell, ME
September 15-17, 2009
54 miles
3485 total miles

I spent a couple of very enjoyable and restful nights and days with Liseley and Dimitrios Handanos at their camp on Howard Pond and reveled in the cool autumn air and marvelous views of the calm pond. The loons sang their eerie nighttime melodies, as if on cue and the late summer days gave way to cool autumn nights. I left the pond and rode down into the village of Hanover and points beyond- arriving in Rumford Center for a ride down memory lane as I passed through the schoolyard of the former Rumford Center Elementary School, home of many memories and much learning. This is where I learned to trace, but not mind, my P's and Q's, with the help of war-horses like Rosanna Cogley, my kindergarten teacher. If there was a Mr. Cogley, I am sorry for him. The school is only a shell of its former self. Built in 1963, that year after I was born, it was a fully modern facility for the time. The construction was of brick and I-beam roof supports, flat roof and long smooth linoleum hallways that were so proudly kept by our custodian Bruce Ramey. My memories of not-so-crowded classrooms, filled with inquisitive little minds and generous teachers. Today the building is totally derelict, with gaping holes in the roof, water everywhere, the dividing walls knocked out and the water intruding everywhere. Local kids shave had their fun smashing all the available glass and breaking bottles everywhere. At one point the building had served as a manufacturing facility, yet now, not without huge capital influx would it be good for anything. While on site at the school an old, familiar face came riding up-- Tom Hoyt, a local resident, rode up to me on his four-wheeler ATV and wanted to know what I was doing on the restricted site. I had ignored the prominent "No Trespassing " signs. Tom's brother, Jon, now owns the house I was raised in and happened to be heading over there to help his brother with something. I left the schoolyard and followed him there. John was extremely gracious and gave me a tour of the house and grounds. I had not been in the house for 14 years and he has so improved everything, I am beyond amazed at what he has done for the place. Those of you who knew us as a family with 5 kids crowded into a little house, will remember a compressed lifestyle. John has knocked out a wall to expand the kitchen, installed shed dormer windows on the upstairs, expanded the upstairs bedrooms into the closet areas, put a hot tub on top of the screen porch, winterized the screen porch-- and many other improvements. Outside, the grounds are immaculately kept, with extensive flower gardens , stone walls, cleared underbrush --- the list too long to mention. John is a collector of antique Fords and maintains quite a stable of beautifully preserved T's and A's (no, not that kind!) in the barn where we used to keep our critters. I was so satisfied to see that the home has gone to someone who truly loves and cares for the place. After leaving the family home in Rumford Center I wended my way down the river to Rumford, down past the falls and into the historic Strathglass Park-- the first settlement in the US, built by the industrialist Hugh Chisholm, to house the millworkers for his new paper mil in Rumford. The brick homes have mostly stood the test of time over the past 100 years, and while a few are in disrepair, many are owned by proud homeowners. I visited one of them, owned by Cheryl Puiia-Finlay, an old high school friend who is now a teacher in the local school district. Cheryl is part of the loyal core that has kept the town running despite the depredations of hedge funds and technological progress in the paper industry. The news in Rumford /Mexico isn't very good-- the Lewiston Sun reported this morning that with the mill's shutting down yet another paper machine and laying off 100 more people, the taxable assessment of the mill will drop by about 30% from $300 million to $200 million -- so lost jobs AND lower taxes to pay for necessary services. The overall valuation of real estate in Rumford now is at around $500 million-- a far cry from the heyday. The town is now condemning abandoned buildings and razing them. Town Manager Carlo Puiia has his hands full. Perhaps there was a small effigy of Nero fiddling in the corner of the restaurant, Brian's Bistro, housed in the historic Harris Hotel building. Cheryl and I enjoyed a most-delicious dinner, which was the best I ever ate in a restaurant in Rumford-- sorry chef Zamboni, may you rest in peace! I started my day rising a bit earlier than I am used to doing and riding in a briskly cold (44 degrees) morning over to the Meroby Elementary School in Mexico. The ride up Harlow Hill was an invigorating wake-up as I got my circulation going and prepared for a presentation of my trip to three 3rd grade classes, which assembled promptly at 8:30 to hear my spiel! We started with bicycle safety and the idea of "Share the Road" , helmets (I wore mine for the duration!), moved on to how I spent my time on the road, what was on my bike, places I had been, etc. While nearly every kid had a bike, about 2/3 of them had never seen the ocean, even though they live in a seacoast state, only about 100 miles inland. There were lots of questions about places I had been, people I had seen, whether I had a good time, and so forth. I promised to answer any further questions they might have if they sent any to me in an email. Of all the topics we covered, Boldt Castle was by far the most popular! Leaving Mexico and the parking lot of Wal-Mart Supercenter there I followed the Androscoggin River along the east bank from Mexico, to Dixfield and then along the Canton Point Road, meandering along the calm but strong flowing surface of the broad river chugging up and down little hills, and finally crossing back over to Route 108 at Canton, then passing down to Turner, Livermore, Leeds, Wayne and over the hills to Winthrop, then Manchester past the rock quarries on the old Winthrop Road and down the hill to historic Hallowell where I established myself at the Liberal Cup Public House and Brewery where they pour great craft beer such as Bug Lager, Dummers Lane Brown Ale, and the cask conditioned Cask-Kickin' IPA. At the bar I met one of my father's former colleagues of the Maine state courts, retired District Judge John Benoit, who resides now in nearby Manchester. We enjoyed some conversation together and a few laughs. He is going to send me a book of poetry he has written and used for a fund-raising effort for Alzheimers in Maine. As a treat to my last night on the road, and a way to stay off the cold ground with my recently acquired sniffles, I am staying at a local bed and breakfast, the Benjamin Wales House, ca. 1820. This means that I can walk from the bar to my accommodations a few blocks up the hill and away from here. Its getting to be that time, so soon I will retire...

Day 71 Lancaster, NH to Hanover, ME

2009-09-15T09:04:00.000-07:00

Day 71 Lancaster, NH to Hanover, ME
September 14, 2005
59 miles
3,416 miles

Topped off my tires with some compressor air and spent an enjoyable morning riding out of Lancaster to Jefferson, NH on the back roads guided by Dave Haas, my WarmShowers host. The net result of the ups and downs was high ground-- the views to the east of Mt. Washington and the rest of the Presidential Range were spectacular and the rides down the hills before the climb up Gorham hill and the last big descent into Gorham were thrilling.

Crossed the Appalachian Trail in a couple of places and noted significant hiker's cars parked by the roadside. The return to the Androscoggin River Valley, nestled between the mountains was a sure sign of homecoming. As I crossed the state line into Maine, I noted that there were no welcome signs, only prohibitions and warnings: no fireworks, no weeds on your propellers, tough drunk-driving laws. The only sign missing was: "You're in Maine. No fun. Turn around now." Whatever happened to the WELCOME sign? C'mon Maine!

The first 6 miles or so into Maine on Route 2 were taken over by construction crews re-configuring the road, which has been badly needed for many years now. That section of road has claimed many lives over the years so this will be a big improvement, including smooth, wide shoulders for bikes. Had I known about the construction, I would have taken the North road to bethel on the other side of the river, as not long after the construction zone, when I reached Bethel and 3,400 miles, I had a tire blow-out. It was the biggest bang and fastest deflation I have ever experienced on a bike, so I was very glad I was travelling on a safe, wide, and flat section of road when it happened, as opposed to one of the fast downhills I passed earlier in the day.

Stopped at the Bethel Bike Store to get a replacement tube, and when I exited the shop and climbed back on to my bicycle, my friend Dimitrios pulled up in his car, as casually as if he had last seen me just yesterday, not last year. We went down the road just a few hundred yards to celebrate with a couple of pints at "The Jolly Draman", where I met the proprietor, Richard, to whom I passed on the regards of Scotty Hubbard of the Prescott, Ontario pub "The Red George". After a couple of rounds, it was getting late, so I threw my panniers in Dimitri's car and started spinning my way to Hanover and the inevitable Howard Pond Hill, a steep climb of 700 feet or so over the course of 2 miles up from the Androscoggin valley floor below. Returning to the child-hood playground of Howard Pond is always a rejuvenating experience for me. So many memories stir in this magical place where I learned to swim and spent long summer days chasing frogs, hiking woods and peaks, sailing and canoeing and reading books all summer long. Always a cool refreshing swim awaited after a steamy day in the hayfields of the valley below.

Day 70 Morrisville, VT to Lancaster, NH

2009-09-15T08:05:00.000-07:00

Day 70 Morrisville, VT to Lancaster, NH
September 13, 2009
66 Miles
3357 total miles

Left Morrisville in a drizzle, but not before another constitutional cup of coffee and in impossible to resist blueberry muffin, which consisted of at least as much blueberry as it did muffin! Route 15 going east was a steady climb up to and a little past Walden, afterwards a great descent on route 2 down into St. Johnsbury. I gathered some more provisions at the local health food store, and by this time the sun was peeking out from behind the clouds. Glimpses of the departing Green Mountains and the approaching White Mountains triggered many good memories of times spent in some of these mountains and a bit of nostalgia mixed with the excitement of the upcoming reunions with friends and family so near, and yet on the other side of the mountains. Another big climb and then another descent into the Connecticut River Valley on the Vermont side at the end of the day with radiant gold light playing across the pastures and corn fields and illuminating the valley and mountains on the east, New Hampshire, side.

My hosts in Lancaster for the evening were Carol and Dave Haas who were extremely easygoing and seasoned bike tourists in their own right. Dave is now retired and taking full advantage of the time afforded by his new situation--he recently completed a spring tour coming across the southern tier from Houston, to Mobile and then back up to New York and Vermont. Keep riding , Dave! We watched some baseball and Sunday night football together, but honestly I couldn't keep my eyes open, the day's ride had taken its toll on me, so I retired in the 3rd quarter!

Day 69 St. Albans to Morrisville, VT

2009-09-13T08:22:00.001-07:00

Day 69 St. Albans to Morrisville, VT
September 12, 2009
39 Miles
3291 total miles

Left the wonderfully warm and hospitable home of Angela and Stephen Bernard and their two daughters, Lindsay and Molly who were bundles of energy and inquisitiveness. Stephen is a bike commuter extraordinaire, logging miles in every month of the year, riding the snowmobile trails of northern Vermont in the middle of the winter nights on his Surly Pugsley, monster snow bike with cartoon 26 rim/29 diameter tires!

Today's ride was mostly casual, apart from the increasing frequency and slope of the hills. I meandered along route 104 out of St. Albans and was pleased to find a smooth stretch of new pavement for almost 10 miles, which made rolling very enjoyable. Spent some time at the waterfalls at Fairfax Falls on the Lamoille river and continued on to the villages of Jeffersonsville, Cambridge, Johnson on my way to Morrisville, where I was met at the edge of town on bike by my next hosts, Marci Young and Zachary, who escorted me the rest of the way to their home. We spent a delightful evening at Morrisville's civic happening place, The Bee's Knees, an establishment where all ages meet to partake of organic dining, good beer, wine , coffee and live entertainment. We ended the evening meeting some of Marci's friends and singing and dancing along with the guitar and piano. Thanks for a great evening!

Day 67-68 Hogansburg to Mooer's Fork, NY to St. Albans, VT September 10-11, 2009

2009-09-11T17:40:00.000-07:00

Day 67-68 Hogansburg to Mooer's Fork, NY to St. Albans, VT
September 10-11, 2009
100 Miles
3252 total miles

I didn't realize how fatigued I was until I woke this morning, 10 1/2 hours later. Last thing I remember was turning out the headlamp. Rip Van Winkle slept in New York, too. I rode the first day into a headwind, the edge of a system moving in from the Atlantic over the middle Atlantic states. Then camped out in Mooer's Fork at a campground that was all but closed for the season. One of the highlights of Thursday's ride was a visit to Dick's Country Store, Music Oasis and Gun City, where there is an amazing selection of guitars of every make and every musician's desire. Leave out the guns. Prominent in the photo of Dick's are a couple of windmills-- the stretch of high ground above the St. Lawrence Seaway between Chateaugay and Churubasco is filled with windmills turning above the tree canopy. Dozens of windmills, if not a hundred? I lost sight and count of them all!

Today, September 11, 2009 is the eighth anniversary of the tragedy that befell the world. Flags at half mast, sober reminders of our sorrows, flew across border stations, post offices and other public buildings. Perhaps my border experience is tempered a bit by my recognition of the very necessary job the border agents perform every day in helping assure our security. Recent convictions in Canada and UK of planned attacks on the CN Tower in Toronto, the Canadian parliament in Ottawa and the "Pop-Bottle" terrorists, give pause for thought. What is the destructive force behind these minds? What are the bridges we must rebuild to understanding the balance of the world that has been so poisoned to want to perform such terrible acts?

Day 66 Johnstown, ON to Hogansburg, NY September 9, 2009

2009-09-10T06:52:00.000-07:00

Day 66 Johnstown, ON to Hogansburg, NY
September 9, 2009
61 Miles
3156 total miles

If any of you are feeling old and weary, telling yourselves that you "can't do it, whatever 'it' is , anymore" then here's some inspiration for you: a couple from Summerstown, ON, Jean and Bob Hill, who just concluded their own Trans-Canadian tour!

This was my last day in Canada with a fair weather ride along the Waterfront Trail which is a remarkable connection of park paths, side-roads, and bike lanes on routes parallelling the St. Lawrence. This had to have been one of the best days yet on my tour, passing through historic places such as the Crysler Farm Battlefield of the War of 1812, where the British and Canadians routed a far superior force of Americans on November 11, 1813. Past the heritage museum of Upper Canada Village, where many buildings of historic significance were relocated during the great inundation of the making of the St. Lawrence Seaway in 1959, then out along the islands in the seaway and through provincial parks winding up finally in Cornwall. I cruised through sylvan glades of birch, sweet, late-summer goldenrod meadows, past marshes teeming with geese feeding for their fall migrations, and glittering sun off of these enchanting waters where fisherman cast out for that last big one of the summer. Speaking of summer: while still here, the people aren't>> overnigth, the parks, public places and roadways have become very deserted, much to my delight. All the kids are now back to school, and the rare tourists I encounter are almost all retirees who are past the rush and bustle stage in life. A much nicer pace.

Didn't get much time in Cornwall, only long enough to "squat and gobble" and then hit the bridge for USA. It turned out to be 2 long, high span bridges with an island in the middle of the river which is owned by the Akwesasne Indians who have recently asserted some national rights with respect to Canadian border patrol carrying guns on their land. Upon reaching the US side, after a lengthy interrogation from the border agent, I reached a dark and forbidding Roosevelt Town, NY, and found the motel there, which wasn't a motel at all. fortunately, I found the motel which had been earlier recommended to me. It was a little more pricey than I had hoped and all they had left was a smoking double, but I jumped at the chance to have a big clean bed, Internet access, laundry facilities and a breakfast!

Day 64-65 Kingston to Johnstown, ON September 7-8, 2009

2009-09-09T11:45:00.000-07:00

Day 64-65 Kingston to Johnstown, ON September 7-8, 2009
71 Miles
3095 total miles

Don't know how long this run will last, but we have just had another 2 days of brilliant weather. A streak of nine in all. I spent such a full day in Kingston that I didn't leave until mid-afternoon. I rolled down the shore to a campground just outside of Gananoque, looking out at the 1000 Islands and woke up to a foggy morning down by the river. It didn't last long and as the fog lifted I was treated to expansive views of the myriad of islands and of the cottages to castles upon them. I splurged and took the tour boat out to the islands, including Heart Island, home of the Boldt Castle, heritage of the Waldorf-Astoria fortune and ostentatious reminder of another age of excess. For whatever reason, this part of the country has never before been prominent in my imagination, but is gaining in appreciation. Perhaps it is in part due to the neglected chapters in my 11th grade American history book! Vague recollections of a French and Indian War and Arnold's march on Quebec are about the extent of my memory banks. The 5 nations of the Haudenosaunee, the St. Lawrence Seaway and the flooding of historic towns to make it, the Loyalists who fled the American colonies and resettled here in historic villages and towns built of limestone, the logging and fur trades, maritime activities, canals, etc., all become matter for musing as I rolled through the towns of Gananoque, Brockfield, Maitland, and Prescott. In many places, old colonial limestone homes, surrounded by stone walls and shade trees, open expansively down sloping hills with St. Lawrence overlooks, which also afford the passerby to catch glimpses of the sparkling waters below.

Upon reaching the town of Prescott, I pulled into the Red George Public House which is a true community fixture, with 50 local owners participating in the equity of the place. The owner of the building in which it is housed, Scotty Hubbard, is also the manager of the place. In another strange turn of events Scotty was born in the same place and same era as my older brother Christopher. Scotty came into this world at Thayer Hospital in Waterville, ME in February 1954. His father Cal Hubbard went to Colby College as did my father, but they weren't contemporaries-- Cal matriculated before the war and returned to finish at Colby afterwards. He was a DKE and my dad was an ATO.

This next part goes out to all the mothers out there reading this and in counterpart to their children: Dear moms, I would like to thank you for standing by your children no matter how old or young, happy or sad, healthy or sick, famous or infamous. While I was at the pub I was witness to a sad, dysfunctional man who had obvious drinking problems which were becoming a public matter to everyone's discomfort. His mother came to help him out and he was less than kind to her, despite her patient and caring manner in dealing with him. He obviously needed help, but I couldn't help but think that there comes a time in life, when despite the unconditional love of a mother directed at a troubled 40 year old son, it needs to give way to a caring loving child returning the sentiment. There ought to come a time when we as children in this world stop demanding things of our parents and turn in their direction to help them as they become older and more frail. Thanks to all you moms (and dads!) out there who give life and love to their children. May we, the children, someday be able to return that love in whatever ways we can.

Day 63 Tweed to Kingston, ON Sunday September 6, 2009

2009-09-06T22:22:00.001-07:00

Day 63 Tweed to Kingston, ON
Sunday September 6, 2009

62 Miles
3024 total miles

One more fabulous day of riding in this ever-so-sweet tail-end of a Canadian summer. Greg and Stacey gave me a wonderful send-off and pointed me down the road with guidance as to better choices for a safe and enjoyable ride towards Kingston. They both put on many kilometers a year on these local roads and know every bump and pothole! To my pleasant surprise, after about an hour and a half I was overtaken by Greg and Stacey on the road between Marlbank and Tamworth. They paced me into Tamworth and we stopped briefly at the bakery there for some excellent refreshments (thanks guys!) and another push off-- this time they headed for the remainder of their loop and points homeward and I along the remainder of my ride. I decided to take County 4 instead of County 6 and it turned out to be a good decision, and projected me straight towards Lake Ontario at Millhaven. The road conditions were for the most part smooth and had good shoulders for much of he way along 4. Once at the lake I followed Route 33 into Kingston along what is known as the Loyalist Trail. The views out towards Amherst Island and along the beginnings of the St. Lawrence were sunny and sailboat filled. It made me want to park the bike and get out on the water. Perhaps tomorrow for the 1000 Islands boat tour... In one respect I did fulfill that wish and booked a night on the Canadian Coast Guard Ice-breaker/museum/Bed&Breakfast Alexander Henry, named after colonial fur trader, militia man, merchant and author Alexander Henry, which offers fairly affordable rooms in the historic district of Kingston during the summer months. In addition it is a floating museum and an extension of the maritime museum next door. Tomorrow will involve some sightseeing and I will avoid riding too much, as it will be "crazy labor-return-home-at-all-costs-regardless-of-the-bike-in-front of-me-day." Spent dinner out at the Kingston Brewing Company where I met a fellow traveller and blogger, Jen, who is on the road in a return tour of her native Canada after teaching English Lit. abroad for the past 13 years. Awesome journey so far-- great conversation, pictures and insights to all things and people Canadian! Happy Trails in "Jamboree!"

Day 62 Peterborough to Tweed, ON Saturday September 5, 2009

2009-09-06T07:37:00.000-07:00

Day 62 Peterborough to Tweed, ON Saturday September 5, 2009

64 Miles
2965 total miles

Rode out of Peterborough with Sue and Ian guiding the way on the back roads. We stopped at the world famous Peterborough lift locks built in 1904 on the Trent-Severn waterway and witnessed a couple of tour boats being lowered 50 or more feet in a big tub of water! I never knew there was such an invention, but the physical principle is simple and the same as that involved for any hydraulic lift jack-- but size of the lift pistons required to lift the mass of boats and water-- now that's a different story! The Trent-Severn canal goes from Lake Ontario to Lake Huron and is a popular trip for boaters. On my way to Tweed, I looked for the Trans Canada trail where it was indicated on the maps, and found, instead, depending on the locale, old rail tracks or rough ATV rutted rail grade, but none of the promised limestone screenings. The map set I am using published by a consortium of various trails councils have been somewhat misleading, whether I'm looking for a paved road, a road with a shoulder or a cycling trail in good condition. Much of the overall trails plan here in Ontario is still " a good notion" awaiting a budget, zoning or use permits or some other reason. The result is a discontinuous system of trails, which is hit-or-miss. When they are good, though, they are very good and getting off the road is a great way to relax a bit and see some scenery instead of the white-knuckle alternative on the provincial highways. My Warm Showers hosts in Tweed, Stacey Berdan and Greg Kerr, tri-athletes in their own right, were very accommodating. Greg also had a great uncle, Sylva Biron, and an uncle, Gerald Kerr, who lived in my hometown of Rumford , Maine! I have more great information about the route ahead and have been convinced to spend a little more time in Ontario, to visit the historic port town of Kingston, the former capital of Canada, and the Thousand Islands boat tour near Gananoque. I should make it to the states in about 2 days.

Day 60-61 Barrie to Sharon to Peterborough, ON

2009-09-05T08:59:00.000-07:00

Day 60-61 Barrie to Sharon to Peterborough, ON
Thursday-Friday September 3-4, 2009
39/62 Miles
2840/2902 total miles

Compressing two postings into 1 as I work my way across Ontario. the weather has been so kind to me that I have decided to take a more leisurely pace across this section, enjoying some of the sights and lounging in the sun a bit. My tent was so wet from the dew at the campground yesterday, it took some extra time to dry out-- besides, there was a great saltwater pool at the Bare Oaks resort and I couldn't resist getting some sun and vitamin D on parts of me that don't normally see the sun ;)

The ride into Peterborough was enhanced by an end of the day ride in the oncoming moonlight along the Omemee section of the Trans Canada trail, where I arrived at the home of Susan Sauve who works in transportation planning in Peterborough and Ian Attridge who is founder and director of the Kawartha Heritage Conservancy, a public land trust, were magnanimous hosts in the Warm Showers network. Enjoyed a relaxing evening and morning brunch with them and their friends Richard and Renee and set my sights on my next stop in Tweed.

Day 59 Craigleith Provincial Park to Barrie, ON Wednesday September 2, 2009

2009-09-03T09:57:00.001-07:00

Day 59 Craigleith Provincial Park to Barrie, ON
Wednesday September 2, 2009
49 Miles
2801 total miles

Instead of taking a complete rest day in one place, I decided to take 2 easier riding days with some leisure time mixed in. I rode the easy grade along the Georgian Trail to Collingwood where I had a little maintenance done on my bike at Little Ed's bike shop. From there I rode to Wasaga Beach, Ontario's Gold Coast, where I spent a couple of hours on the beach at what is claimed to be the world's longest fresh-water beach at 14km long. This is a very touristed area, with lots of summer cottages as well as day visitors-- about a 2 hour drive from Toronto. I enjoyed the time on the beach and avoided visiting any of the tourist trap shops, then rode my way out of town in the direction of Barrie, or at least so I thought! I took route 92 out of Wasaga Beach, but missed my turn-off so ended up probably 20 km off of my planned route which delayed me in arriving at my destination, warm showers host, William Sulivan's home. After cleaning up, William, who is a cooking instructor for the Canadian military, suggested we go out to dinner and we spent some time looking around in downtown Barrie for something suitable. We ended up at Manhattan's which served up a very respectable pasta dish, although the total ticket was a little pricey. I saw a little more of Barrie this morning as I retraced some of the previous night's steps down to the waterfront of Lake Simcoe and Kempenfelt Bay. The people of Barrie have a beautiful town with parks, marinas , sculptures and bike paths all along the waterfront. William told me the night before that many people who live here commute the hour + into Toronto every day and enjoy living here due to it's lower congestion and amenities, such as the lake. If I were a Canadian, Barrie would be on my list of places worth living!

Day 58 Owen Sound to Craigleith Provincial Park, ON

2009-09-03T09:39:00.001-07:00

Day 58 Owen Sound to Craigleith Provincial Park, ON
34 Miles
2752 total miles

Took the easy way out today as I found the library in Owen Sound to post some photos up to the blog. Made it as far as Craigleith Provincial Park where I set up my tent on the shale shores of Lake Huron in the shadows of the Blue Mountains. On my way to the campground I passed the wreckage of what was apparently a tornado, immediately next to the section of the Georgian Trail that I was riding on, just next to the Blue Mountain ski resort. Trees were snapped off half-way up their trunks , roofs torn up, and debris everywhere. It happened a couple of weeks ago on August 20 when I was back in Michigan and tornadoes were reported in Ontario and Quebec during that time. Explored the shale shoreline for a little and observed many fossils-- trilobites, etc. That are part of the fossil record there. One may look, but it is forbidden to keep any of the specimens. The sunset was spectacular as it set over Cape Rich to the west of the campgroaund. Made friends with my neighbors at the campsite, Brigette, her 2 doughters Vanessa and Amelia and Vanessa's boyfriend Chad and little dog Tanika. They invited me over for some of Amelia's guitar music by the campfire, some originals and some old stand-bys. Very enjoyable and capped off with a cup of hot cocoa and Bailey's Cream!

Happy Birthday # 15 Arthur

2009-09-02T01:00:00.000-07:00

You are the bomb. I love you, Man!

Day 57 Monday 8-31-09 South Baymouth to Owen Sound, ON68

2009-09-01T10:36:00.000-07:00

Day 57 Monday 8-31-09
South Baymouth to Owen Sound, ON
68 Miles
2718 total miles

I earned my breakfast last night by cracking Earl's back. Earl, you will remember, is the co-proprietor of Carol and Earl's restaurant, location of home-made, Manitoulin island soul-food. Earl was feeling bunch better this morning after the wrenching I gave him and prepared me his "kitchen sink" omelet in recompense for the adjustment. Leaving there very fortified, I made my way to the ferry terminal, bought my passage to the other side and waited for the boat to arrive for the 28 mile crossing. Met some motorcyclists on the boat who related a tale of near disaster from the day before, when one of them was run off the road onto the soft shoulder while he attempted to pass a transport at 80 mph. People's summer clothes have returned along with the summer weather and everyone is smiling again to enjoy what remains of the summer which many here say "never came". After disembarking the ferry in Tobermory, I stopped for a cup of coffee at the Secret Mermaid café and met several kind people who shared some stories and soul wanderings and recommended some more books to read. I think I have enough in the stack now to last a couple of years-- well , if that's what it takes... Among them was singer-songwriter, Lianne Cranfield, who invited me to a performance to be held Tuesday night. Alas, I will be in Barrie, by then 150 miles away! The ride down ON Route 6 was wrist-jarring and finger-tip numbing, with poor road margins and mostly no shoulders. Mostly a straight shot, and I would have preferred to take the more scenic shoreline route, but feeling pressed for time a little and wanting to make up for some of the dreary days on the north shore decided to roll as fast and straight as possible, weather permitting. I made it to Owen Sound around dinner time to find, to my great satisfaction a Chinese buffet, and this was a good one! While there I asked the waitress for directions to any nearby camping sites and when she was unable to give me any solid information, a lady at a neighboring table, "Mother" Theresa, joined the conversation and gave me some alternatives. She asked me to join her and we proceeded to have a conversation about life, love, marriage, Edgar Cayce, and her life experiences. We agreed that I should call her "Mother" for M. Theresa, and she would call me "General" for G. Lee! She is semi-retired now and has some rental properties, boundless energy and a positive outlook on things. Bellies full and ideas spinning, we parted with her leaving me a phone # in case of emergency while here in Ontario, and her best-wishes for a successful journey. I got to the "Harrison" municipal campground in Owen Sound late, around 9 p.m., set up tent, showered and crashed. No one was there to receive me, and to my dismay the next morning I discovered that my stay had just cost me $32, the most I have paid for camping, to date, on this trip. I had heard that Ontario camping could be ridiculous, but this was over the top. I quickly realized why in the morning, as campground personnel swarmed around doing not much of anything in the morning. This campground, by all appearances, is something of a local jobs program and the fees show it!

Day 56 Sunday 8-30-09 Webbwood to South Baymouth, ON

2009-08-31T05:29:00.000-07:00

Day 56 Sunday 8-30-09
Webbwood to South Baymouth, ON
78 Miles
2650 total miles

Today was one of those days that is made for cycling. Temps maybe a little cool at around 58-62 but high lofty cumulus puffs scattered across the sky, the sun shining brightly, and a tail-wind pushing me from the N/NW. Some incredible overlooks here on Manitoulin Island which has some heights at least 500 ft above lake Huron's level which is at 580 ft. above sea level. The island is the world's largest freshwater island and is home to 4 "First Nation" settlements, one of which, Shequiandah, claims to be the oldest settlement on Manitoulin at 9,500 years old. The landscape here is rolling, with a lot of limestone outcroppings. There are also large freshwater lakes scattered across the island. The island is a sacred place for the Anishinaabeg who have lived here and traveled to and from here for thousands of years. Dinner was at Carol and Earl's Restaurant and filled me to the gills, topped off with some of the highly recommended home-made pies. Blueberry for me! Tomorrow morning I sail for Tobermory on the M.S. Chi-Cheemaun (the Big Canoe). The crossing will take me to the tip of the Bruce Peninsula where I will ride towards Barrie.

Day 55 Saturday 8-29-09 Lake Lauzon to Webbwood, ON

2009-08-30T13:09:00.001-07:00

Day 55 Saturday 8-29-09
Lake Lauzon to Webbwood, ON
47 Miles
2572 total miles

The winds did not abate, the rain did not let up all day. After sitting in the campsite until around noon, waiting for the weather to break, which was in the forecast, I decided to get on the bike and start riding again. Very unseasonably cold weather, wind blowing out of the NE and driving rain into my face. Very challenging conditions, on top of which is the unrelenting traffic of the Transcanadian #17. The backblast from the wake of a couple of transports (that's what they call big trucks here in Canada) pushed me off the narrow paved shoulder onto the soft shoulder. Fortunately, I chose a straight line and slowed down enough to regain the highway pavement. When I reached Massey around 6 p.m., soaked like a drowned rat, I found both of the motels in town to be completely full due to the once-annual-last-weekend-in-August fair. Don't ask me what the people were doing at the fair in the downpour and cold-- enjoying themselves, I suppose. I got back onto the bike and sloshed my way towards the promise of a fabled motel in Webbwood, 16 km down the road. Upon reaching Webbwood, I found the last motel room in town, as the fair overflow had come their way as well. Mine was a special room, with a broken heater which I fixed( I stripped and reconnected the burnt wire with exposed hanging wire) and a standing lamp with bare bulb in the bathroom. Hey, I was grateful to have any (heated!) room at all and shelter from the storm to dry my things out. An added bonus: the lady at the motel let me use her dryer to speed up the process. I think by morning I had eliminated at least 5 pounds of water weight! I watched some Quebecois TV station, which I found practically incomprehensible, the accent is so strong. I guess I will need to get used to it and train my ear to the sounds. There was , however, a very good reportage of a legendary "horse-man", Jean-Baptiste Beland 1904-1996, who lived a charmed life and was a man who acted like a horse, pulled a carriage, neighed, whinnied, stamped his feet, ran everywhere, slept in stables, and made his living in carnivals and by transporting passengers in his "charette." He was something of a legend among his Quebec brethren and was genuinely accepted and included for who he was and what he did in society. I wish that we could find more places for people with differences in our society.

Day 54 Friday 8-28-09 Bruce Mines to Lake Lauzon, ON

2009-08-29T09:01:00.001-07:00

Day 54 Friday 8-28-09
Bruce Mines to Lake Lauzon, ON
52 Miles
2527 total miles

Headwinds blowing out of the E-SE slowed me down as a change in weather is coming off Lake Huron. Passed along the "north channel" and through the Mississauga First Nation,Blind River and to the small RV resort at Lake Lauzon where the neighboring "Pelletier" clan of Sudbury and S.S.M. took me into their family reunion and feasted me with a delicious dinner of BBQ chicken and other goodies. I was relieved to not be eating noodles tonight, which was my plan, if I wasn't able to find a Friday night fish fry, which seem to abound in Great Lakes country. No such thing going on in Lake Lauzon-- something better instead! They told me a little bit about their family-- this was a reunion of 4 sisters, their children and spouses, totaling only 17 members. I say "only", because in relation to overall size of their family, this is a small gathering. They told me about their grandmother, matriarch of the family, and mother of 18 children who recently passed away at the age of 92. Well over 200 descendants were at the funeral, including some great-grandchildren. Got to bed at a reasonable time, and the rain finally came. It rained pretty hard all night and still into morning, as of this writing. I will need to get back on the bike and start riding again, but want to wait for the weather to break a bit more before heading eastward. The next 4 days forecast shows improving weather-- sunny days-- and I will try and make up for lost time today in the upcoming ride, but for the present moment, the mizzerale drizzable continual.

Day 53 Thursday 8-27-09 Sault Sainte Marie, MI to Bruce Mines, ON

2009-08-27T19:10:00.001-07:00

Day 53 Thursday 8-27-09
Sault Sainte Marie, MI to Bruce Mines, ON
50 Miles
2475 total miles

Spent the better part of the morning running errands in Soo, making phone calls, changing $, etc. Thor Engblom was right! (at least in this case!) Despite its natural beauty, the north lakes side of Ontario is not a cyclists' paradise. Strong advice to planning a tour in Ontario: an expedition style bike, with mountain bike wheels or a 38 c tire profile is better suited to varying road conditions which are hard on the tires and axles. After the bridge crossing from SSM, MI to SSM, ON I took an alternative route out of town-- Queens Ave. To Provincial 17B, which pretty much follows the St. Mary's river eastward out of the Soo area towards Garden River reservation and onwards to where it rejoins the 17 around Echo Bay. Apart from no shoulder or bike path in SSM, ON, the 17B stretch was very enjoyable and had a wide shoulder and slower traffic. As soon as I joined up with the 17, things were different. The shoulder comes and goes, the trucks and cars travel at a high rate of speed and don't give much leeway. I tried some alternative sideroads which were indicated on the map, and the turned from paved to gravel within a few miles, which had me seeking the highway again. I arrived in Bruce Mines at dusk and located into a chair at the Bavarian Restaurant, which has an excellent German fare on its menu. The food was very good, and they even filled a special request to cook some wax beans I had purchased at a self-serve garden stand on the roadway. Very squeaky on the teeth and a delicious accompaniment to the Jaeger Schnitzel and mug of Haacker Pschorr! Camped at the local municipal campground which was close, easy and had hot showers. $10 Canadian. Pas mal de tout!

Day 52 Newberry to Sault Ste. Marie Wednesday 8/26/09

2009-08-26T19:52:00.000-07:00

Day 52 Newberry to Sault Ste. Marie Wednesday 8/26/09 80 miles 2425 total miles Cool temps and crystal clear skies made for a bellwether day for a bike ride. Rode up M123 towards Paradise, through the Hiawatha National Forest to the beach and the Lakeshore road to Point Iroquois lighthouse and museum, where I took the panorama video of the approaches to the upper St. Mary's river fromt he lighthouse tower, Bay Mills, Brimley, and finally Sault Ste. Marie. This was a must-ride route, with very low levels of traffic along some very scenic coastline for almost 30 miles, beautiful beaches and hiking trails abound here.

Day 51 McMillan to Newberry Tues. 8/25/09

2009-08-26T19:14:00.000-07:00

Day 51 McMillan to Newberry Tues. 8/25/09 Rest Day
16 miles!
Total Miles 2345 miles

Today was a rain-out. I waited in the Triangle Cafe for hours, nursed my coffee for hours and then decided to hit the road despite the down-pour. I got out of the rain at the Comfort Inn. Dryed out, read and got ready for the next day.
Did not go to Toquahmenon falls, didn't see a moose, didn't go to the beach. Took a hot-tup and went to sleep.

Day 50 Monday 8-24-09 Munising to McMillan

2009-08-25T09:12:00.001-07:00

Day 50 Monday 8-24-09
Munising to McMillan, MI
57 Miles
2328 total miles

Duchess the Dog I miss you!

What a beautiful day for a ride. Having arrived late the night before I was late to set up camp, late to eat and late to sleep-- guess what? I was late to get up as well! Left my beautiful beach spot at about noon and went into the town of Munising to do a little shopping, get some lunch and do some blogging, which you read about in the previous post. I finally hit the road out of Munising, headed to my warmshower hosts, Gary and Jan Barrett in McMillan, and knew that if all things went well I would arrive there just before dusk. Just before I reached the beginning of the famous Seney stretch, a 25 mile, flat, straight shot, I experienced another flat tire! Given my situation the previous day, I sought cause for the damage, in order that I not suffer the same fate just a few more miles down the road. The cause appeared to be a snakebite, with 2 small fang perforations next to one another on the sidewall of the tube. Given that I hadn't seen any roadside snakes since North Dakota I deduced a pinched tube, the result of an improper installation the previous day. After using my last spare tube, I mounted again and pushed across the Seney stretch into a mild head/cross-wind and reached Seney cross roads at about 8 p.m. With another 18+ miles to ride. I passed by the Seney National Wildlife Refuge where I was greeted by a pair of sandhill cranes who were so close to me I could nearly reach out and give them a stroke as I passed by. The male, a dark russet back and rich crimson head, cronked back at me as I greeted them. The rest of the ride followed rich pastoral scenes along the Manistique River past farms, forests and homes until I reached the Barrett's on Manistique Lake in McMillan. Gary was there to greet me with his strobes flashing, so I might better find them in their wooded location on the dirt road near the end of the county road I had just ridden. Gary had prepared a yaki soba noodle dish which was exquisite and Jan helped me out with laundry, warm shower was taken, great conversation and stories about some of Gary's past tours before I turned into a very comfortable bed somewhere around midnight. Morning soon arrived and was received by a wonderful breakfast and strong coffee! They pick their own berries and make their own jam have a great summer garden out of which came tasty string beans. Jan sent me off with a slice of her coconut cake and a beautiful greeting card with a photo of a sandhill crane she had taken. Much appreciated, Jan and Gary. Thanks for the great stay and take care until next time! I hope to make Sault-St. Marie by nightfall, although it's close to 80 miles and the weather calls for showers. Hope I can waltz between the raindrops!

Day 49 Sunday 8/23/09 Marquette to Munising, MI

2009-08-24T11:32:00.000-07:00

Day 49 Sunday 8/23/09 Marquette to Munising, MI
40 miles
2271 Trip miles

Lazy day, late start. 2 flat tires. A beautiful ride along the lake with moderate headwinds. Had a great lunch at The Rubaiyat in Marquette where wonderful things middle eastern are prepared. The beet salad is exceptional!

My Warm Showers,.org host, Nancy returned from her weekend camping at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and decided to accompany me out of town for a few miles. She was very patient as I endured 2 falt tires, the first of the entire trip. A little whimsical side-diversion at Lakenenland, a roadside attraction/sculpture garden, where I met the artist Tom Lakenen, who is an iron worker by trade and artist by night and vacations! and enjoyed some outdoor music and hot dogs before finishing the ride to Munising Tourist Park just in time for a fabulous sunset. A little pricey for a rustic tent site,but the showers /bathrooms are brand new and there is a separate area on the beach for tents away from the RV park. My only complaint is the road noise nearby. Great smoked Whitefish bagel for breakfast and PC time at the Falling Rock Cafe and Bookstore, a locals' gathering spot, in Munising

Day 48 Saturday 8-22 Baraga to Marquette, MI

2009-08-23T08:28:00.001-07:00

Day 48 Saturday 8-22
Baraga to Marquette, MI
73 Miles
2232 total miles

I left Baraga around noon, after packing nearly every object back into my bags after collecting them from all over the room where they were spread out drying. Baraga is at the base of the Keewenah peninsula at the bottom of a very sheltered bay which gives it a great sheltered position on Lake Superior. Its neighbor , L'Anse, is home to a ceiling tile factory and a big hill climb up and away from the lake. I was shocked as II read the road signs leaving town that it was 71 miles to Marquette. I had been told by some automobile assisted locals that the distance was 50 miles. This was going to seriously impact on my schedule for the day. No dallying around now, as I had to make some serious distance in the daylight that remained. The ride took me through some of the highest terrain in Michigan, past the high-ground "peaks" which range 1800-1900 ft above sea level (about 1200 ft above lake level)... There were lots of uphills and downhills, more uphills for the first 40 miles and lots of uninterrupted trees. About 30 miles into the ride I stopped at the Cozy Bar where I had a late lunch and worked the remainder of the afternoon digesting the gut-bomb I ingested. Nice people at the bar who helped me out with some local knowledge on the road construction zone ahead, which I was able to navigate without much trouble after their advice. In Ishpeming, 15 miles west of Marquette, I stopped briefly at the National Ski and Snowboard Hall of Fame, which was closed for the day and at the Jasper Ridge Brew pub where they poured me a great brown ale, which was just enough to give me the courage to ride the remaing distance into Marquette. The temps are cool, in the mid- 50's, but the sun finally made an appearance at the end of the day and should be around for all of tomorrow if we can believe the forecast. The last 10 miles of the ride into Marquette were almost all a gradual downhill down to the lake. I rode past the Northern Michigan University campus on my way into town on Wright Street, where all the students have returned for the academic year. My warmshowers.org host is away for the evening, but her mother is home and was a gracious reception committee along with her 2 dogs and cat. After the best combination of soap, hot water and applied friction, I felt somewhat rejuvenated, but hungry, nevertheless, and was directed to go downtown to find a place to eat. Marquette has an established "oldtown" which consists of the waterfront area and a few business blocks. The buildings are late 1800's/early 1900's, mostly stone and well maintained for the most part. There are a coule of pubs worth visiting: the Northland Pub at the Landmark Inn which has a later-night kitchen open until midnight. And The Vierling, whose kitchen closes at 10, but which brews its own beer and is an establishment in its own right, having been in its present location sicne 1883.

Day 45-46 Wednesday-Thursday 8/19-20/09 Saxon, WI to Ontonagon, MI

2009-08-23T07:50:00.000-07:00

Day 45-46 Wednesday-Thursday 8/19-20/09 Saxon, WI to Ontonagon, MI 73 Miles 2109 total miles A late start into headwinds and some rolling hills as I moved the first 25 miles out of Wisconsin and pushed into the Gogebic Iron Range "mountains" of northwest Michigan slowed me down a bit. These same mountains slowed a whole bunch of investors down in the 1880's when iron ore was first discovered here and over 50 mines popped up overnight. The stock market went crazy with speculation and some stocks soared over 1,200 percent before the crash of 1887 which pretty much wiped out all the gains and mining transferred to more productive claims of the more well-known Iron Range of Minnesota , northwest of Duluth. Sound familiar to any recent events? I knew I had somewhere in the neighborhood of 75 miles to make it to the east bank of the Big Cranberry River on the shoreline of Lake Superior where a ski patrol colleague of mine, Mark Saurer and his wife, Kristie, have a place on the shore. As I rolled across the state line I passed through the towns of Ironwood, and Bessemer, and after turning off Route 2 onto MI 28 at Wakefield the stretch of road turned to forest encroaching on road which went on for about 16 miles before the little town of Bergland and another turn, north this time, onto MI 64 and a steady stretch of uninhabited road for another 12 miles to White Pine and another 6 to Silver City at the Superior Beach. The lake was flat calm and mirror smooth with very still air and a slight drizzle just coming on. The last 6 mile push to Mark's place was easy pedaling as the pavement is still fresh from new construction. Mark and Chinook have been a great hosts here, and I decided to sit out some rainy weather with them and help put some felt on the garage roof before the rains came. We made a dump run and then went to Roxy's bar in Ontonagon for a beer and burgers named after favorite dead dogs while my clothing dried (melted!) at the local laundromat. Ontonagan is home to a Smurfit-Stone pulp mill that has onoy recently re-opened after a dormant shut-down and was formerly home to several copper mines, all now closed down. In many ways this part of the country reminds me of the north woods sections of Maine-- large tracts of timber land, small economically challenged towns, and hard working people who would rather be working than not but are challenged to find jobs in traditional natural resources based industries and don't have many other alternatives if they remain here. Mark tells me that the hunting season and the winter snowmobile tourist season are stronger and better for business than the summer season. Cold though. The rain continued through the afternoon and into the evening hours. The rain part of the storm is supposed to subside tomorrow and the winds, now already blowing strong off the lake from the north reaching 25 m.p.h. That's a big difference from the flat calm of yesterday! Waves are already rolling in a couple of feet high and may get as big as 6 feet by morning. We are at a point in the lake with the wind coming out of the N/NE the waves have time to build amplitude over several hundred miles of travel. I will assess in the morning whether I will head out-- it might make for some tough pedaling, but I need to keep making progress if I want to keep on track for the Maine coast by September 15.

Day 47 Friday 8/21/09 Ontonagon to Baraga, MI

2009-08-22T07:41:00.001-07:00

Day 47 Friday 8/21/09
Ontonagon to Baraga, MI
50 Miles
2159 total miles

The hard winds and drizzle blowing 20-30 mph out of the north across Superior continued through late morning when I realized that the storm might not break as early as predicted and it would soon be time to go if I wanted to make any progress at all today. I struck out for Baraga to the east and collected many raindrops along the way. This is the wettest I have gotten so far and even the raincovers on my panniers were saturated, in fact they had each collected pools of water which was hanging in sagging bags from the rear, probably adding a few extra pounds to the load. I decided to stay the night at the Ojibway Casino hotel in Baraga to dry out and unpacked everything to make sure I got everything as dry as possible. I also learned from the book I'm reading, "The People Called the Chippewa" by Gerald Vizenor, that Baraga is named after an Austrian Catholic missionary Frederic Baraga, who built a church and house on Madeline Island in the 1800's but was a great interrupter of indigenous culture in his zeal to Christianize the locals. He later became a bishop for his efforts. If you ask around, not too many locals know that history. Vizenor gives some sobering statistics regarding the percentages of land still in native hands out of the original lands that were designated as reservations. In some cases it is less than 8% of the original landmass. So over time, the already bad deal these tribes/bands received became worse through private sales to timber and mining concerns and other opportunists. The reservation casino/ hotel phenomenon is another story. I have passed through several reservations during my trip, not all of which have these enterprises. Apart from the night I would have spent on the Bad River reservation, I haven't visited any of these casinos.This operation is clean and modern, with comfortable rooms and nice amenities-- they even have an arcade and bowling alley for the kids. My only complaint is the cigarette smoke which travels throughout even the non-smoking sections of the hotel. I met some locals at the bar who were amazed about my trip, one of whom told me to expect the local TV station in Marquette to stop me as I rolled into town there tomorrow! I might fly under the radar and take an alternate route!

Day 44 Tuesday 8/18/09 Herbster, WI to Saxon, WI

2009-08-20T19:03:00.001-07:00

Day 44 Tuesday 8/18/09
Herbster, WI to Saxon, WI
73 Miles
2036 total miles

Started the day with some coffee on the beach which I shared with some camping neighbors who needed a morning boost as much as I did! Headed east along 13 to the little village of Cornucopia which is home to the Fish Lipps Café which serves up a great omelet and also boasts of the northernmost Post Office in Wisconsin. Who knows if it will remain so with the upcoming consolidation and planned disappearance of over 1400 PO's around the country? The big news in Wisconsin today isn't Obama's health care concessions, but rather Brett Favre's plans to join the Vikings for $12-14 million. Perhaps there's still hope for my contract! From Cornucopia, I wound my way around the Bayfield peninsula, past the Red Cliff Ojibway reservation and into picturesque Bayfield where I found Tom Hart's world-famous Bayfield Bike Route, bicycle shop extraordinaire. Tom and his assistant Joey were extremely helpful In giving my bike a much-needed tune-up, chain clean and adjustment, which served me in good stead for the rest of the day's ride. I wished I could have stayed longer and explored Bayfield longer, but needed to make some time before reaching Ontonagon, still more than 110 miles away. I shall return someday Bayfield! I arrived in Ashland, WI around 7 p.m. and found that I still really needed to keep riding so that I would reach my intended destination the next day. I pushed into the Bad River Ojibway reservation and thought I might be able to find some camping there or barring that, a room in the casino hotel. I arrived there at around 8 p.m.. and gathering night fall only to find that the hotel was full and no camping was available, so I pushed on another dozen miles to the campground at the top of long Birch Hill which I reached after dark, exhausted but satisfied to find an open bar where I enjoyed some cold ones before pitching the tent for the night.

Day 43 Monday 8/17/09 Saginaw, MN to Herbster, WI

2009-08-18T13:38:00.003-07:00

Day 43 Monday 8/17/09
Saginaw, MN to Herbster, WI
78 Miles
1963 total miles

Today was a great ride all the way around-- I got a little off course in the Duluth area and missed my turn for the less urban route, but enjoyed the one I took nevertheless! Riding down into the St. Louis river valley was enjoyable as I descended down to lake level at the St. Louis bay at the south end of Lake Superior near Fond du Lac. The river corssing was quite dramatic and the wind was blowing pretty strong and constant on the high span of the Route 2 bridge crossing, with a panoramic view of all of Duluth, the high bluffs abover the lake, the river, and Superior, Wisconsin on the other side. Riding through parts of Duluth and Superior weren't too great, with road damage and traffic creating the need to be attentive. However, once I started getting past the east side of Superior, things got much better. There is a bike path which leaves the Superior are, the Osaugie trail, which goes all of 62 miles along the old railroad grade to Ashland on the other side of the peninsula. I rode along it for a few miles befofre the Wisconsin Route 13 turnoff and it was enjoyable for the most part, although typical of many bike path projects, there were someneglected sections. It seems to be often the case that a well-intentioned project gets initial funding, gets paved, then is forgotten. Sections get torn up, in this path's case, there are 4 wheeler tracks running parallel to the path and so gravel gets kicked up intot the bike path. Also lots of frost heaves in some sections. Once I turned on to WI Rt. 13, though, the going was really smooth. A good shoulder, nice tailwinds, and for the most part, gradual grades. I was somewhat taken aback at the Rt. 2 to Rt. 13 turn, as I noted the sign-post said 74 miles to Bayfield, which I had earlier thought would be my deistination for today. I misjudged the distance and, in fact, realized in mid-afternoon I would not be able to reach it as I had earlier planned. In the end, it worked out perfectly fine--I reached Herbster around 7 p.m. Which is home to a municipal campground right on the beach of the south Lake Superior shoreline. Look a bath in the refreshing lake -- brrrr-- and ate dinner on the beach while watching a marvelous sunset and churning storms over the lake. Met a visiting cyclist, Mark, from the Twin Cities, who will ride the peninsula over the next 3 days. We may ride together in the morning if our schedules coincide. IU will also be stopping in Bayfield at the Bayfield Bike Route bicycle shop to clean my chain and make some adjustments.

Day 42 Sunday 8/16/09 Grand Rapids to Saginaw, MN

2009-08-18T13:38:00.001-07:00

Day 42 Sunday 8/16/09
Grand Rapids to Saginaw, MN
64 Miles
1885 total miles

Hunkered down in a motel room and sat out a torrential rain in beautiful Grand Rapids, MN... The rain poured hard until noon and then the clouds slowly lifted , but never much more than a couple of hundred feet ceiling the rest of the afternoon. When I first thought about this trip, I never thought about certain inevitabilities, sore butt, numb hands and fingers were in the idea book , but I had forgotten about unleashed dogs. I have had a few close encounters of the dog kind, but none so close as today's racer chaser on the Fond du Lac reservation. Good thing I saw and heard this fellow coming from a distance away. I was near the end of my day, somewhere around the 55 mile mark and on a near flat to gradual downslope (thankfully) when this guy broke away from his front yard. He was easily a couple of hundred yards away when he started and I couldn't believe how quickly he closed the gap. It was some kind of herding dog, black and white, and his ears were laid back as he bulleted towards me on on a converging path at a perfect pursuit angle. He could have been a guided missile for the trajectory he took nearly intercepted me. My defense? As soon as I heard him I geared down and started spinning as fast as I could and stepped up a couple of gears as quickly as I could click them off. He entered the highway from the opposite side, crossed the opposite breakdown and travel lanes and came up alongside me in the eastbound travel lane as I was in the eastbound shoulder. I can still hear the click of his toenails and he yipped as he strained to reach me. I had enough presence of mind to reach for my pepper spray canister as I screamed at him and was ready to pull it on him when he ran out of juice and peeled away, just as I started to gain speed. Yup, pepper spray. I also have a small compressed air boat horn taped to my top tube as another alternative, but I knew that that wasn't going to work on this determined dog. So... Moral of the story.. If you are planning on a cross-country bike tour, plan on meeting some not-so-friendly dogs along the way. Trying to outrun a dog on a loaded touring bike is not always easy, and depends greatly on circumstances: the terrain, the speed you are travelling when the dog comes after you and the amount of forward warning that you get. I have become very vigilant and try to assess the danger as soon as I hear the dog. I have had a couple though who have appeared out of nowhere, smart ones, hiding behind a bush or whatever, and who pop out to surprise you at the last second. Fortunately all of those stalkers have been too slow to get to me , but this one today was a reminder that next time I might be riding up a hill when the dog begins the chase-- so in that case it might be a better choice to dismount and confront the animal with mace if the lack of a moving target isn't enough to dissuade it.

Day 41 Saturday 8/15/09 Cass Lake to Grand Rapids, MN

2009-08-16T07:24:00.001-07:00

Day 41 Saturday 8/15/09
Cass Lake to Grand Rapids, MN
57 Miles
1821 total miles

After 2 very relaxing days in Cass Lake it was time to hit the road again. The weather was very heavy and overcast, but at least the clouds gave some cover and the temps weren't as high. I rode through the Leech Lake Reservation and Chippewa National Forest and met another rider, Kevin Smith, of St. Cloud, who is in training for a ride of his own, down the Mississippi this coming September. We rode together from the town of Ball Club ( yes there is such a place!) to Deer River where we stopped for lunch. Not long after lunch, Kevin's crank fell off and he stopped for repairs and I kept going. The sky got very dark and a torrent came down. I took shelter under a gas station canopy for a while and waited out the storm. Heading east out of deer river, route 2 is all torn up for construction and I switched over into the construction area to get away from the 2way traffic and no shoulder on the eastbound lanes. With the exception of frequent piles of dirt in my way, sany surfaces, and mud, it worked pretty well and I was able to ride most of the remaining ride to Grand Rapids without fear of getting crushed by a semi truck. Once in Grand Rapids, I instantly knew that this was a paper mill town-- and the air was really heavy, just getting ready to burst open again. With the hopes of getting osme quick shopping done and continuing for another 20 miles or so before camping for the night, I headed into the grocery store, and just as I concluded my shopping the sky opened up again-- very wet! I decided against sloshing through the rain and opted for a cheap motel room tonight, with the complete luxury of fridge, TV and microwave. Ahh civliziation! Tomorrow it is supposed to rain some more, showers mostly, and I have to make up some lost time and distance if I want to make it to the UP of Michigan and a host there by next Wednesday night.

Day 38 Mentor to Cass Lake, MN 8/12/09

2009-08-13T21:16:00.000-07:00

Day 38 Mentor to Cass Lake, MN 8/12/09

81 miles
1764 total miles

Today was mid way point, at least as far as miles go, I am halfway to my Maine destination. As proof of that attainment, I crossed the Mighty Mississippi today, on the segment of its headwaters where it flows out of Lake Itasca to Lake Bemidji. I rode as far as my sister-in-law Sherry's house in Cass Lake on the Leech Lake Ojibwe Reservation. Sherry has an excellent home on 42 acres in the woods next to a small pond at the end of a long sandy driveway. Ahh privacy! Planning on staying here for a rest day and some good cooking, wild rice and some reading down-time with a good new book by Gerald Vizenor, "The People Named the Chippewa" which recounts narrative histories of some of the local people.

Day 37 Turtle River State Park, ND to Mentor, MN 8/10/09

2009-08-13T21:12:00.000-07:00

Day 37 Turtle River State Park, ND to Mentor, MN 8/10/09
72 miles
1683 total miles

Passed through Grand Forks, ND and East Grand Forks, MN on my way to little Mentor. I regret having to pass up the hospitality of warmashowers.org member Phil Huck in Crookston, as I needed to make more miles in order to reach Cass Lake tomorrow night. Ronnie, a construction worker camping out in the Mentor City Park gave me my best gift of the day, an ice cold Busch Light beer as I rolled into the campground at 9 p.m!

Day 36 Devil's Lake to Turtle River State Park, ND

2009-08-11T12:25:00.000-07:00

Day 36 Devil's Lake to Turtle River State Park, ND
72 Miles
1610 total miles

Today was another fine day for riding, a little warmer than the day before, with some more beautiful scenery here in the northeast part of the state. There are more trees here and large, but shallow, lakes on the prairie, which are home to countless migratory nesting birds. The noisy terns frequently join me as I pass through their areas, peeping and squawking along with me for a 1/2 mile or more before relenting to their nests. Lots of canvasbacks, red-heads and other ducks, white pelicans , geese and countless other waterfowl find there summer homes here. A sad moment occurred when I came across a recently killed raptor, a red-tailed hawk, who flew too close to the highway and was left dead beside the road. My heart goes out to the bird-people.

I finished the day at the mosquito infested Turtle River State Park. As usual, the RV people get the premium camp spots-- on higher ground,away from the mosquitoes and the tenters are relegated to the lower swampy areas. While at the campsite, I met an interesting lady, Marya Hart, who is a composer and songwriter.
She and her collaborator Laurie Flanagan have recently staged their new musical "20 Days to find a Wife" a play about a lighthouse keeper in door county who is given 20 days, by his boss, to find a wife or to lose his job which played at the History Theatre in Minneapolis. Thanks for the wine and have a great trip west, Marya. May you find new inspiration for music along the way.

Day 35 Rugby to Devil's Lake, ND 8/09/09

2009-08-11T12:20:00.000-07:00

Day 35 Rugby to Devil's Lake, ND
8/09/09
70 miles
1538 total miles

An enjoyable, peaceful ride across a sunny prarie-- the clouds are billowy and higher, with intermittent sun. Not too much traffic today and overall good riding conditions.

Day 34 Saturday 8/8/09 Minot to Rugby, ND

2009-08-09T10:02:00.001-07:00

Day 34 Saturday 8/8/09
Minot to Rugby, ND
70 Miles
1473 total miles

I am now at the center of the universe... Or at least the geographical center of North America in Rugby, ND. Today's ride went well, starting fog and mist in the Souris (Mouse) Valley, and mostly calm and cool, if not damp, conditions and climbing up onto the prairie north of Velva, where I encountered a new wind farm, one of many I have seen popping up all over the windy west. This one has a power purchase agreement with XcelEnergy and was developed by Acciona, which is, I believe, a Spanish wind developer concern. Siting for these wind farms out here on the prairie is determined by a couple of important factors, among others these being the most important: wind, and proximity to the power grid. In this wind farm's case, the development was situated right next to an available transmission line, thereby minimizing the connection costs to the developer. Over the long run, these kinds of readily available sites will be harder to come by and the more difficult projects will involve the challenges of establishing new power transmission corridors-- every player in the wind development industry in a particular region will, of course, wish to have those lines installed the closest to their projects, in order to keep their connection costs down. And there is also the issue of obtaining the easement rights from landowners who may only indirectly benefit from wind development in their area. All a very large set of issues for local, regional and national regulators, utilities and developers to sort out, but the long term benefits are too great to be ignored. The establishment of distributed generation will be a significant component to making the overall energy portfolio of the future. No one source will meet all the demand, and it will be a combination of all these resources and new technologies coming online that will make it happen.

I was really amazed to hear, for example, the new drilling technology that is being employed in the Bakken formation around the Stanley area to reach the oil that is trapped in the rock there... The wells are sunk 2 miles deep, down to the oil containing layer, then the drill articulates somehow and bores horizontally through the layer for another 2 miles! This tends to loosen the surrounding rock and allows for oil seepage into the well. Remarkable!

At breakfast in Rugby, on Sunday morning, I was approached by a local gentleman, Archie Lindseth, a retired farmer. He was waiting for his son and daughter-in-law to arrive for breakfast and so we chatted a while and also had a chance to talk with son Chuck, when he arrived. Chuck's a farmer south of town here and not too sure about the wind development in the area. We talked about energy portfolios and the different available resources. Chuck is in the nuclear corner as being the most energy efficient, but when we began talking about the long term risks associated with the storage and disposal of the waste the conversation halted. These are difficult topics for many to discuss, and conversations can quickly deteriorate into strongly held opinions without the benefit of facts and support. They often aren't rational, but I am struck by activist Joanna Macy's http://www.joannamacy.net/index.html comments about the deep feeling of authority one feels when faced with inter generational challenges, as we are stewards of this planet, only here for a very short while in it's keeping. We must derive our authority from the knowledge that we know it is right to preserve species, even life as we know it, and in the case of nuclear poisons with half-lives of tens of thousands of years, demand the answers to hard questions about treatment and storage.

Day 32-33 Thursday-Friday 8/6-7/09 Stanley to SE of Minot, ND

2009-08-08T13:39:00.001-07:00

Day 32-33 Thursday-Friday 8/6-7/09
Stanley to SE of Minot, ND
67 Miles
1403 total miles

Beat my way against wind and rain all day today heading slowly towards Minot. There's a stalled front here and even though the weather is coming up out of the soutwest from Wyoming and Montana, it is creating counter-rotational airflows which blow out of the southeast. It was a lot of effort and I probably achieved a 7-8 mph average for the time I was in the saddle. I stopped briefly in Minot to pick up a new tire and camping fuel and then rpceeded down the road, 10 miles southeast on HIghway 52, to the farm of relatives of one of my "out-laws". Bill and Marilyn Goheen were ever the patient and gracious hosts, receiving me at almost 9 p.m. They are aunt and uncle to my sister in-law Sherry Ellefson, and were wonderful hosts. As an added bonus, Sherry's mom was also visiting and I was able to get to know her a little bit. Bill is now retired from farming and real estate, and he and Marilyn enjoy their solitude on their lovely spread in the country, keeping 4 llamas, 2 alpacas and 4 goats. Even those will soon go, as he and "Ma" wish to simplify things even more. I spent an extra day, working on my bike- installing the new tire, tuning up, cleaning the chain, etc. Then I helped Bill with a few small chores around the pace and he toured me around the spread in his truck. Later that evening he and Marilyn hosted me to dinner at the nearby Cowboy Corner café in Sawyer. Very much appreciated! The weather doesn'tpromise to improve much over the next day or so, as the front is defeintely stalled over this area and the moisture is a fine drizzle or cloud-like mist that has humidity at 100%, thought the temperatures are in the 60's so it's tolerable. I spent some time at the kitchen table withi Bill's road atlases and checked my remaining course and still intend to ride the Michigan UP and then ride along the north shore of Lake Huron and then descend to Manitoulin island and cuct across southern Ontario over to New York and cross somewhere before Cornwall. I still have a little less than 2000 miles to go, so it's time to pick up the pace a bit! I figure about 5 more days to the Bemidji area, then another 5 or so to the UP from here. If I do 65 miles a day from hereon, with rest days every 5 days, I will make it to Maine around September 15th, my initial goal. I can do that!

Day 31 Wednesday 8/5/09 Williston to Stanley, ND

2009-08-06T08:12:00.000-07:00

Day 31
Wednesday 8/5/09
Williston to Stanley, ND
73 Miles
1336 total miles

I was very grateful to have a reservation at a motel in Williston as I felt rotten all day as I rode and couldn't eat much at all due to my sick stomach. Jen at the King's Inn in Culbertson let me know that Williston rooms are hard to come by-- the area's economy is booming right now, with oil wells being sunk all over the basin north of Williston, road construction and other projects going on in the area. By the time I got to Williston, I was really beat, felt very weak and exhausted. My sleep was deep, long and unmemorable and I woke up 10 hours later, soaked in sweat, but the chills and fever of the night before were gone, much to my gratitude. I also made a stop in Williston at a cache drop-off , where a Warmshowers.org host, Phil Huck, left me a care package of homemade granola, soup mix and Congo bars! I very much look forward to having some of these good things while on the road, and already broke into the Congo bars! Thanks for the good thought, Phil, I really appreciate it! The ride out of Williston on Rt. 2 bears due north for a full 12 miles before turning east again. It feels difficult to not be making any eastward progress, especially into a headwind. Otherwise riding conditions today were great-- high scattered clouds, temps in the mid to high 60's and the winds finally turned in my favor about half way through the day. The roads are on average, much safer than those in Montana, as US 2 here is a recently built divided 4 lane highway with a paved shoulder which for many stretches has a full width breakdown lane, complete with a protective rumble strip near the white line. The country here is rolling gradual long ups and downs and much greener than I thought it would be-- and was later told by a local, that this year is unusual after much rain in the area. The farms here seem tidier, more well kept, and the roadsides don't appear to have as much junk and litter next to them. Overall a better aesthetic than much of the blight present in many eastern Montana towns. Made it to Stanley later in the afternoon and found the local municipal campground-- the tent site is apart from the RV camping, in a lot next to the Mountrail County courthouse. Very easy accommodations and showers are available across the street at the RV campsite. $6 a night for the tent site! The food across the street at the Two-Way Steakhouse,was unremarkable, with the mushiest rotten baked potato, slimy fried Walleye, and the waitress was surly-- she seemed like she was being put upon and slapped the dishes on the table, then left without ever chekcing in again. When I had to get up to tell her about the disgusting potato and request an alternative, she rolled her eyes! Some lessons in customer service are due in Stanley. Aftewards at the bar, I had a conversation with one of the workers who is camping at the site here. He confirmed that things are really booming here and that help is hard to come by in Minot, Bismarck and surrounding towns. Stanley is at the center of much of this activity with the oil drilling and lots of people are working 12 and 13 hour days just keeping up.

Day 30 Tuesday 8/4/09 Culbertson, MT to Williston, ND

2009-08-04T20:23:00.000-07:00

Day 30 Tuesday 8/4/09 Culbertson, MT to Williston, ND
52 Miles
1261 Total miles

Day 29 Monday 8/3/09 Wolf Point to Culbertson, MT

2009-08-04T20:10:00.000-07:00

Day 29 Monday 8/3/09
Wolf Point to Culbertson, MT
53 Miles
1229 total miles

Rode the first 20 miles out of Wolfpoint right into a blasting cold rainstorm, but I had a short goal of visiting some friends in Poplar, whom I had met at the powwow. On the road, I picked up a cross which I had found beside the road which had been left there by Carol Cruise, a right-leg amputee who was walking a perimeter path around the US. Carol had left the cross there with a message to pass it along to "someone to the south". In Poplar, I was the grateful guest of Monica, Leah and Mary Strauser and enjoyed Leah's excellent indian frybread (which I learned how to make-- recipe follows) and hot coffee. Delicious and high energy for the remainder of the ride to Culbertson which had quite a few hills near the end. I also passed the cross along to Mary, and during my visit there, their uncle Lew stopped in for drop-in visit, and who is, as things synchronisticly turn out, a right-leg amputee! We all marvelled at this strange happening and proceeded to eat those pieces of golden frybread!

Leah's Golden Indian Frybread
(recipe makes a lot!-- ~ 25 pieces)

8 cups white flour
1 cup non--fat dry milk
3/4 cup sugar
3 tbsp baking powder
1 tbsp salt

Mix all dry ingredients thoroughly

To this mixture add:
3 tbsp oil
4 cups of WARM water

Mix briefly, leaving lumps in dough, and turn onto well-floured board (several cups of flour) and knead gently, taking care to not over mix or over knead-- dough should be moist and slightly sticky.

Roll dough about 1/2 inch thick

Heat 2 quarts of vegetable oil in dutch oven or deep pot

Cut dough into ~3"x4" rectangles and cut a slit in the center of each one.

Test one piece in the oil to check cooking temp... fry on each side about 2 minutes -- until golden brown. Cook the remaining pieces, no more than 3 at a time, to prevent oil from getting too cool.

Remove from oil and place on drain rack or paper towels.

Eat while hot!

Day 27-28 Saturday 8/1/09 Glasgow to Wolf Point, MT

2009-08-04T19:44:00.000-07:00

Day 27 Saturday 8/1/09
Glasgow to Wolf Point, MT
50 Miles
1176 total miles

Late start out of Glasgow and a ride into the "feared territory" of the Ft. Peck Indian Reservation. At least that's the prevailing story I kept hearing from the "Anglo" locals in the neighboring communities as I approached the Rez. "don't stop to camp on the reservation, they'll stab you!" one man said. I stopped in Nashua at the Wagon Wheel for a beer, just at the western border of the reservation to hear the local stories. Not sure I got the complete and unvarnished truth there, not only about the rez, but also about the general affairs in Washington and Montana at large. Seems like the federal highway system has forgotten all about their promise to widen US Rt. 2, a promise made in the 1950's, to a 4 lane divided highway. Seems like the diminishing numbers along the hi-line have everything to do with the replacement of transportation alternatives to the south with interstate 90 getting all of the east-west traffic routed along it. The population lost along the towns of the hi-line don't seem to have anything to do with the improved efficiencies in American farming technologies and to some degree, migrant labor, which have replaced jobs in the once labor intensive farm economy for good. The secondary and tertiary jobs associated with support functions in communities hasn't improved as a result either, and many of these rural communities are a shadow of what they once used to be.

When I arrived in Wolf Point, I checked into the Sherman Hotel, whose accommodations are comfortable and clean enough, even though the purported "non-smoking" room in the "non-smoking" hotel sported an ashtray and book of matches beside the bed, as well as a pile of cig ashes next to Gideon's bible on the shelf below. Was pleased to find that behind the hotel there was the Wadopana (canoe paddle) powwow celebration going on, hosted by the Assinniboine who are river people from the Milk and Missouri valleys. Dancers and singers are here from all over the region to celebrate heritage and fellowship with each other and the gathering is a very generous spirited group. I had several good and warm conversations and was made to feel very welcome here. Delicious Indian soft tacos and other good things to eat and marvelous haunting, powerful singing and colorfully costumed dancers. There is a very strong association of military service veterans from the reservation and a particular returning marine was honored by the many people there after 13 years of service including 2 tours of duty in Iraq. I also learned about many of the challenges facing the broader Indian nation of the Sioux, including alcohol and drug abuse, poverty, gang violence, education issues, depression, and so on. The reservation is a very tough place to grow up and opportunities are few, but the family ties here are very strong and the people genuinely have a sense of caring and supportive community amongst themselves. Blood relationships run deep and powwows create the place for reunions of many of the far-flung extended families among the tribes and settlements.

Day 26 Friday 7/31/09 Malta to Glasgow, MT

2009-07-31T16:37:00.001-07:00

Day 26 Friday 7/31/09

Malta to Glasgow, MT

70 Miles

1126 total miles

2009-07-31T16:36:00.001-07:00

Day 25 Thursday 7/30/09
Havre to Malta, MT
90 Miles
1056 total miles

Day 23 Tuesday 7/28/09

2009-07-29T10:33:00.000-07:00

Day 23 Tuesday 7/28/09
Chester to Havre, MT
64 Miles
959 Total Miles

Rode from Chester, MT with Gary Evans through some storms to Havre, which is about halfway across the state, now. The wind is very challenging-- either your best friend or your worst enemy. The winds have been switching direction frequently and yesterday we rode about 20 miles with a 20-25 cross wind coming at us from the northeast. Found lodging at Northern Montana State University dorms for $10 a night, and am very tired, so will take an extra day's rest before heading out towards Malta, 85 miles away, tomorrow. Check with Bill at the Student Union Building for availability. They prefer a call ahead and can't always guarantee that a room will be available, based on summer enrollment, sports camps, etc. http://www.msun.edu/stuaffairs/stuactivities/index.htm (406) 265-3732

Got a great massage and some good road food Havre Health Foods and Earthlight Wellness Center with therapist Kevin Campbell, NCTMB. He used some trigger point therapy to get some of those tight knots out of the gastrocenimius and other parts of my cycling engine! Thanks Kevin! www.earthlightswellness.com 406-265-5301.

Day 22 Monday 7/27/09 Cut Bank to Chester, MT

2009-07-28T19:33:00.001-07:00

Day 22 Monday 7/27/09 Cut Bank to Chester, MT 70 Miles 895 total miles After some free mocha Monday samples at the local McDonalds and some fresh fruit for breakfast, Gary and I rode out of town towards Chester, the next stop for us on the Hi-Line. The day went quite well, this being the second farthest in absolute distance that I have traveled during this trip. Gray was anxious to go ahead and thought that he might even push on to a town farther down the line. There hwere some pretty significant headwinds in the last third of the day and by the time I reached Chester, there was Gary, in the shade of a roadside rest-stop awning. We considered camping in this spot, right next to the tracks, but after the previous night's cacophony near the tracks thought better of it. Using a local map, I scouted out the city park and much to my pleasant surprise found a lush, green park where tenters are welcome to stay for free. Simple accommodations next to a picnic pavilion in a city park, but with running water and toilets , so all was good. We even had a watering schedule and location to set up the tents so we knew where to situate so as to stay dry-- a quick trip to the local grocery for a six pack and we were established for the night. Just before dusk another cyclist rolled, in-, "JP" from Deerfield, NH, who has been on the road since June 11 and is making the brave westward-ho trip to the coast pushing his Trek 520 into the wind. Oh to be 22 again! JP was able to share all kinds of road wisdom our way and we learned of a particularly beneficial stop-off in upcoming town of Havre, the next day's journey, as well as general information about crossing Ontario, a route fraught with challenges, as well as scenic beauty.

Day 21 Sunday 7/26/09 St. Mary to Cut Bank,MT

2009-07-26T21:34:00.001-07:00

Day 21 Sunday 7/26/09 St. Mary to Cut Bank, MT 63 Miles 825 total miles The plan to leave St. Mary campground at 8 was delayed by neither my new riding partner, Gary Evans , nor I being ready dto leave at the agreed upon time. We took a little longer, getting over to the St. Mary Lodge and grabbing a cup of coffee, getting connected with wireless and then finally got underway around 9:45 ... Making the initial ascent on US 87 out of the St. Mary area in a light drizzle, up St. Mary Ridge, which is a massive moraine through burned out lodgepole pine forests, the aftermath of pine bark beetle infestations. At the top of that first ridge, there was a great overlook back towards the park and out towards the plains that were our inevitable destination that day. We climbed a second ridge and then descended it down towards the Cut Bank Creek drainage where we turned east, headed down the drainage into the Blackfeet Reservation. The first 10 miles or so of that gradual descent were euphoric, with the plains ahead beckoning us, the mountains getting smaller in our mirrors and our sapeed sometimes exceeding 25 mph, which is a pretty good clip. Then the reality of the reservation roads hit us-- lots more trash and especially broken glass on the roadsides. Unfortunate, but with a little bit of aware riding we managed to get through there without a flat. We arrived in Browning around lunchtime where we stopped for a drink, some WIFI and a visit to the local IGA where we spit the ingredients for a veritable sidewalk banquet and answered questions of curious passers-by. "How far you going? " "Where you coming from?" "How many miles can you do in a day?" After lunch, we set our sights on Cut Bank, another 30 or so miles away where we would spend the night. The Montana camping guide I obtained from he chamber of commerce Libby showed that Cut Bank had public camping, and when we got to town we commenced to look for it to no avail, so we stopped at a local casino to ask directions. We discovered that the said campground had been closed for several years and the lady at the bar, Liz, offered for us to camp in her yard, after clearing it, of course, with her husband, Pat, with a quick phone call. She let us know that her 4 year old, Vladimir, would be there to greet us and be full of questions and directions, it being his back yard and all... It was a very welcome place to stay and after clearing some of young Vladimir's toys out of the way to make room for our tents, we set up for the night, did some laundry, went out to a big dinner at the Cut Bank Café and returned for showers and a solid night's sleep-- except for the 6 or so trains that thundered through town all night long, whistles blaring, as we are on the Burlington Northern Santa Fe's Hi-Line, one of the most frequented tracks in the country with 35 to 40 trains a day rolling through every little town out here.

Day 20 Saturday 7/25/09 Sprague Creek via Logan Pass to St. Mary, MT

2009-07-26T21:27:00.001-07:00

Day 20 Saturday 7/25/09 Sprague Creek via Logan Pass to St. Mary, MT 40 Miles762 total miles Rose early and hit the road at 6:15 to make the ascent over Logan Pass via the Going to the Sun Road, 18 miles to the pass and about a 3400 foot climb. Park rules require that all bike traffic past Logan Creek must complete the last 12 mile journey before 11 a.m. Not a problem if you aren't too loaded down, or if you get an early start. Today, though, we had Matthew and Eleanor's 6 month old Olive in tow in the chariot behind Eleanor's bike. Matthew, for his part , has decided to give himself a bit of a workout and carry some of his camping gear, extra food, and some other rocks, bricks and lead bars in his pack, just for the sake of being a mountain man. I, for my part, have deferred to the gracious Manita and her Subaru to carry all but the essential food, water and foul weather gear. The pass ride was beautiful-- we made it with a little time to spare as we stopped frequently for nursing stops, diaper changes and Olive activities! Spent lunchtime at Logan Pass talking with a Dutch couple, Stella and Joris, who are on an extended tour of the US after spending the past 9 months touring Chile, Argentina and Bolivia. If that's not enough, they completed a 14 month trip from Holland to China on those very same bikes-- truly a testament to their perseverance as well as interpersonal compatibility. The ride down from the pass was thrilling with incredible views of the (receding) glaciers , followed by a chilling dip in St. Mary Lake at the bottom. Matthew and I found our way to St. Mary Lodge on a hot afternoon, for a couple of cold beers and relaxation in the leather lounge chairs while we waited for the rest of the gang to join us for a great dinner-- then off to the campsite for some end of day relaxation and a good night's rest before heading south and east out onto the great plains.

Day 19 Friday 7/24/09 Whitefish to Sprague Creek, MT

2009-07-26T21:24:00.001-07:00

Day 19 Friday 7/24/09

Whitefish to Sprague Creek, MT

40 Miles

722 total miles

Rode with Matthew Smeltzer via backroads from Whitefish 2 West Glacier Park.

Day 15 Tuesday-Friday 7/21-24/09

2009-07-24T12:27:00.000-07:00

Day 15 Tuesday-Friday 7/21-24/09
Logan State Park to Whitefish, MT
60 Miles
682 total miles

Tuesday was the day that I made it to sanctuary to my sister-in-law, Manita's, home in Whitefish and a great extended visit with the family where i will stay off the bike for 3 days to rest and recover, visit with family and enjoy summer a bit in Whitefish. The ride from Logan State Park along Rt 2 is very challenging at times, much the same as the passage from Libby to Logan-- disappearing shoulders, big trucks, etc. Once you reach Marion, there's a huge 7 % grade downhill for 3 miles which is thrilling and takes you to a lower, warmer elevation for the remaining ride to Kila. Just outside of Kila, headed to Kalispell, there is a gravel surfaced bike path that eventually turns to pavement-- I don't recommend the gravel part with full touring gear-- too loose and soft in places and I almost lost control, but once he pavement starts, it's a welcome sanctuary from the hwy 2 traffic all the way into Kalispell. My friend and nephew, Matthew gave me a great tip to take the turn off of Rt. 2 onto West Valley Road-- which I followed up to Farm to Market Road (Mt. 424) and rode it all the way to the reconnect above Whitefish. It was slightly longer than going into Kalispell and then up US 93 north out of Kalispell, but so much prettier and far more relaxing, with low traffic and wonderful vistas of the Flathead Valley and surrounding farmlands. The last 3-4 miles of HWY 93 into Whitefish was treacherous! Slow down people!!!

Have spent the past 3 days chilling at Manita's house, spending time with her, Eleanor, Matthew, their baby Olive. Visited the farmer's market, did some errands, got my new contact lenses taken care of and recharged the batteries! Alfred, Audrey and their 3 boys Chase, Sully, and Hans came for dinner last night and we sat down to a big pad Thai feast. Finally niece Nathalie came rolling in late last night, returning from a trip to Phoenix/Tempe area where she was looking at a naturopathic school there. It was great to see everyone out here and enjoy the summer in Whitefish a little with the gang. Thanks for the wonderful hospitality!!!

This afternoon, Matthew and I will ride into the park from Whitefish (no baggage!) where we will meet with Manita, Eleanor and Olive for a night of camping and an early morning rise to ride the Going to the Sun road over Logan Pass and to St. Mary campground for Saturday night. On Sunday morning I get fully loaded again fro my chug across the plains of Montana, North Dakota and Minnesota. I figure it will take me about 10 more days to cross Montana and another 5 for North Dakota, putting me into Minnesota about the end of the first week of August. Time will tell-- it's Big Sky country out here!

2009-07-21T21:27:00.000-07:00

Day 14 Monday 7/20/09
Libby, MT to Logan State Park
45 Miles
622 total miles

My body did not cooperate after yesterday's push in the heat. To make matters worse, today was even hotter. I told myself going into this experience that I would pay attention to my body's needs and respond appropriately. The first sign of that came at 7 a.m. When my alarm rang and I turned it off to get some more sleep. I awoke surprised to find it was past 9 a.m.-- too late to avail myself of the 7 to 9 am $2.99 breakfast special, but more importantly, a sure sign that I wasn't going to even try to make it all the way to Kalispell today. Today was even hotter than yesterday, so I decided to take my time this morning, have a leisurely breakfast, and spent some time at the local internet/networking company's office posting my blog before setting out onto the road eastward. Did I already say it was HOT?! IO don't know how hot, but the forecast when I left Libby was for 95 + and the bank signboard read 87 as I rolled out of town at 2 p.m. Not an auspicious start!

Crosses across Montana: as one journeys across this state one finds roadside crosses placed by the American Legion in memory of the departed travellers along Montana's highways. A sobering reminder of the tenuous hold we have on this life as we thunder along at unnatural speeds-- certainly unnatural to what the body can sustain in sudden deceleration. Although I haven't kept count, I can pretty much count on seeing at least on every couple of miles and some are multiples. True to the immortal Lenny Bruce, I still haven't seen any Stars of David (or any other faiths) represented! One of these markers I passed around US 2 mile marker #65 showed 17 crosses for one site. Just a few miles east of Libby the shoulder all but disappeared. I was left with a 6 inch or less margin of pavement from the white line and there were some mighty big trucks rolling through here , loaded with lumber and you name it. On coming traffic too? ! Do you think that the narrowness of the road or speed limit for that matter would slow any of them down? You already know the answer. 15 miles of that treachery, all the while climbing in heat for the most part, took away the fascination (or the ability) to gaze at the picturesque Cabinet mountains to the south of me. Finally, the shoulder returned and I was able to relax a little and enjoy the ride-- although the new hazard was rumble strips which eliminated 1/2 of the usable space on the shoulder and pushed me closer to the guard rails. Rumble strips, while a good idea for the dozing trucker, are a bad idea for the touring cyclist, especially on downhill, where one might encounter an itinerant hazard and need to swerve to avoid it.

I stopped to cooldown in the chilling Fisher River and then rode through an area called Houghton Creek, where there had been a big forest fire in 1984, and even 25 years later, the mountainsides show the recovery still taking place very slowly. What does Smokey Bear say kids?

By the time I reached Happy Inn (yes, it's on the map!) I was out of water and getting very thirsty and a COLD beer, in this case 2, was in order. Talked a bit with the local barflies, bought some more beverages, and left the station (it's the halfway point between Libby and Kalispell) and headed down the road 5 more miles to the Logan State Park Campground , which turns out is a very convenient, modern and recommended facility: complete with hot a cold running water, showers and cleanup sinks for dishes. Monday night made selection of a lakeside campsite no problem at all. A great swim in the clean water and the song of loons on the lake cap this day off quite nicely.

Day 13 Sunday 7/19/09

2009-07-20T10:42:00.001-07:00

Day 13 Sunday 7/19/09
Clark Fork, ID to Libby, MT
69 Miles
587 total miles

Got an early start today in the pacific time zone at 6:45 a.m.-- trying to beat the heat. Rode into Montana and the Mt. Time zone at about 516 trip miles and climbed to Bull River Junction about 20 miles east of Clark Fork where I stopped for coffee and stoked up on carbs for the ride northward on Montana Route 56 through the Cabinet Mountains. It was a truly amazing road and the scenery was picture postcard. The Cabinet Wilderness to the east of the highway has a grouping of 8k mountains which are all very rugged. The terrain supports a grizzly population and the Bull river meanders crystal clear, cold and lazy through the lush green valley. I talked with one angler who said the daily bag limit on brook trout is 20, as they are trying to reduce their numbers in favor of the endangered Bull Trout which is native to the stream. The brookies average 12-14 and the fishing appears to be pretty productive. Stopped at Halfway House, a bar at Bull Lake, where I enjoyed the cooling effects of a couple of Kokannee's in the frostiest glasses I had in a while. Very refreshing. Met some interesting people, including Karol, who cares for elderly patients in the area and owns a pet bobcat. The new bike is really an improvement on both the uphills and downhills. I am able to get better climbing response and motion as the frame is stiffer, shorter and more responsive. The downhills feel SO MUCH safer as the tires are a wider 32c profile vs. The previous 28c, and the wheels and brakes are solid-- giving me the confidence to cruise down some of the hills a little faster and carry more momentum onto the flats and up the next thills. After taking a mid-afternoon rest and read at the junction of US 2 and Rt. 56, I rode a few more miles until I reached the dramatic Kootenai Falls and the "Swinging bridge" a plank pedestrian suspension bridge over the rapid river below. The wind was blowing and the bridge was, well, swinging high and unsteady over the river below-- who needs to pay for a carnival ride at the amusement park! I received some advice that there was a municipal park where I could camp in Libby, and found it-- $5 a night, but no showers-- at this point, I will make do-- the price is certainly right! I will apply the savings towards a good meal tonight! 96 miles between here and Whitefish-- I can't really decide whether I want to try and do the whole thing in one day or 2-- I feel it might be better to split it up- or perhaps my nephew Matthew Smeltzer will come and join me for the ride back into Whitefish late in the day. His wife, my niece, Eleanor, might carry my bags back in her car. Would that be considered cheating?

Day 12 Saturday 7/18/09

2009-07-20T10:28:00.000-07:00

Day 12 Saturday 7/18/09
Sandpoint, ID to Clark Fork, ID
36 Miles
508 total miles

It promises to be another hot one. I am still in the Motel 6, getting my courage up for the upcoming 3 days ride to Whitefish. It's 193 miles-- but will probably end up being more, as the Noxon campgraound today is another 5+ miles up the road past the Montana Rt. 56 turn-off at Heron. Yesterday was really hot and took a lot out of me. While the road grade wasn't bad, the traffic planning for bikes wasn't the best. There really is no great way from Hayden up to here other than US 95, a really busy highway which although has a speed limit of 65 is frequented by big trucks and cars speeding in excess of 80. The shoulder almost disappears for sections and the rumble strip cutouts sometimes take half of what's left of a 2 foot margin. In places there were construction zones and the orange barrels took over what was left of the shoulder-- I was fortunate to have about 5 miles of uninterrupted brand new pavement all to myself that hadn't yet been open to cars- it was a good solution to an otherwise dangerous section. I will be glad to get off that highway today! On the other hand there were some great sections as well, including the dedicaed pedestrian lanes across the long bridge across Pend Oreille into Sandpoint. I arrived late in the afternoon/early evening with the sun flashing on the lake out of the west-- very scenic place. Decided to splurge and tatke a motel for the night vs. Looking for a campground and riding in the dusk. It was a good choice, as I got cleaned up, and went across the street to a bar and grill that served up a great ahi steak. I met some nice people, including Tammy, a truck driver who is repurposing her career from running a canvas and awning business for 20+ years to a life on the road. She lives here in Ponderay, but enjoys the change of scenery and activity of the road after raising 3 children-- and she always has a beautiful place to return to when she is finished hauling a load. She also takes some marvelous photos which she showed me a few of-- images of nature, elk and mountains in Banff, and the Oregon coast, and of course, one of her Peterbilt truck! The ride from Sandpoint to Clark Fork along the north shore of Pend Oreille was breathtaking. The lake was formed during the ice age and a glacial ice dam formed, with a sheet almost a half a mile thick in places. The mountains to the east literally fall into the lake nearly 2000 feet. When the ice dam from the glaciers broke Glacial Missoula Lake fomred in the valleys to south and east covering thousands of square miles and causing massive torrents which carved out some of the dramatic canyon passages in the surrounding areas. Stopped for while along the way to watch an osprey fishing over the shallows of the eastern part of the lake. The remarkable bird patiently stalked his prey, hovering over the spot where a fish was near to the surface, then swooping and diving into the water in a big splash-- all talons and wings flapping. 3 attempts before finally success! Made it to Clark Fork and stumbled onto a restaurant called the Squeeze Inn which is run by a wonderfully colorful lady named Janet and her daughters. Made friends and had dinner with a couple of motorcycle tourists from Missoula who originally were friends who met at a bike shop they used to work at a few years back. Micah is a carpenter, and Garth is a math teacher at Loyola High School and Marine reservist. Both enjoy their bicycling as well as motorcycle touring so they were interested in my trip. One thing led to another and we learned that Janet also takes tent campers at her home just up the street, so we ended up having a delicious meal, (tonight's special was a Basque prix fixe menu with snapper, squid, tomato garlic soup, salad , crusty bread-- and if you had any room left, huckleberry ice cream) great conversation, all at an affordable price and a comfy place to pitch our tents and grab a hot shower. Our waitress was Janet's daughter, Tia, who is a very talentted young woman and who is headed to study opera at the San Francisco Conservatory of Music in the fall. As it turns out, she was also an applicant to the Leni Fe Bland Foundation annual music contest in Santa Barbara for young and promising talent-- which has a family connection for me, as Leni is the wife of my late grandfather Lee Fe Bland. Tia will apply again next year and we wish her great success.

2009-07-18T10:39:00.001-07:00

Day 11 Friday 7/17/09
Hayden Lake to Sandpoint, ID
47 Miles
482 trip miles
Met Mike Sheffield for lunch in HL Pretty easy grade to Sandpoint but HOT 95F +

Day 10 Thursday 7/16/09

2009-07-17T10:10:00.000-07:00

Day 10 Thursday 7/16/09
Spokane, WA to Hayden Lake, ID
47 Miles
435 total miles

After visiting with the Bradley's this morning I received a 4 person bicycle escort and tour of the South Hill section of Spokane, a meandering route through cool, shady, tree lined boulevards past hundreds of beautiful 1910-20 construction craftsman style, American 4-square and other assorted classic homes. We stopped in a couple of parks and visited the Japanese gardens before we said our goodbyes. I like Spokane! Spent just a little more time downtown where I enjoyed a sidewalk café across from Riverwalk Park, had some refreshments and was approached by Lance, who is paraplegic but very interested in doing a cross country seated cycle trip-- I encouraged him to start soon, meanwhile thinking to myself that it will require some effort, but when I looked at Lance's arms I am pretty sure he will have little difficulty, probably far less than I-- the man is built like a rock! It is interesting how I project my limited understanding onto others very reflexively, only to catch myself in the act. One more thing to work on. I plotted my journey out of town, and headed to the Centennial trail.

Centennial Trail was very enjoyable, following the river course, moderate grades and past swimming holes on the Spokane River, mostly protected from traffic and noise and passing through ponderosa pine shady spots which was greatly appreciated due to the afternoon heat-- the thermometer read 98 F upon my arrival at Prairie and 95 in Hayden Lake at 6:30 p.m. I was approached on the trail by a couple of people today-- Joe, who is a Cross-country bike veteran- having done Boston to San Francisco and who offered me a place to camp in Post Falls, and by Patricia who is living in her camper at the state line rest stop with her 14 year old dog Sassy. Patricia is working for the State of Idaho as a highway flagger and waiting for payday and the next job. Things are kind of tough for Patricia right now, as her kids help her with her mortgage on her home in Deer Park and she tries to keep her stuff together with her intermittent work. Hang in there, Patricia-- better days are coming soon!
If you are headed east through Idaho from Spokane-- there's really only one way to do it enjoyably and safely, and that's the Centennial Trail.

Arrived at the home of Jeff Meagher and Tawny Lackaye in Hayden Lake, upon referral and enjoyed a great (late!) night out-- first to Jeff's excellent restaurant, "The Porch Public House" http://wedonthaveone.com/ The Sweet Sesame Spinach Salad and Moon Burger come highly recommended by this gourmand! We returned to their place for some more wine and conversation-- once more, I'm blown away by hospitality and generosity-- thanks guys!

Day 9 Wednesday 7/15/09

2009-07-16T09:21:00.000-07:00

Day 9 Wednesday 7/15/09

Medicine Lake to Spokane, WA

31 Miles

388 total miles

Today was reconfigure day! My old ride, Trek 720 needed some serious help: wobbly wheels, problems with handlebars, brakes and headset were contributing factors to my physical discomfort and unease over safety concerns on the bike. Coming down from Washington pass had been a serious endeavor... so I went into Spokane with the intention of fixing/repairing the bike and after doing the tallies as to what it would require to pull that off (not to mention the time in getting the necessary work done) I opted for a new bike. I spent the day at Spokane REI with the very helpful Carol and Dan who took great care of me and also managed to assist with some of the fit problems for gear that inevitably ensue with changing stuff out.. My big feet needed to clear the rear panniers, and the new bike, a Novara Randonnee, has shorter chain stays than the old Trek, thereby making clearances quite close. We are all set to go, and I took the bike on its cross-town maiden voyage, climbing up the hill along "High Drive" where I experienced a wonderful sunset and learned of the local sunset worship culture as many people were parked along the conyon rim overlook to enjoy the last rays of the day. I arrived at dusk to the home of Chris and Julianne Bradley and their children Easton and Isabelle, in the South Hill neighborhood. Great folks and another relaxing evening with good conversation. Easton (8) has his mind set on accompanying me out of town (at least for part of the distance) and I am looking forward to riding the Centennial Trail from Spokane to Couer d'Alene (say "coredalane") and then onto the next stop at Hayden Lake, ID.

Day 8 Tuesday 7/14/09

2009-07-14T23:10:00.000-07:00

Day 8 Tuesday 7/14/09

Gramd Coulee to Medicine Lake, WA

77 Miles

357 total miles

?? (many) calories (Heart Rate Monitor still not working!)

Today's ride was a long one-- the weather forecast had me worried that it would be a hot ride-- it turned out to be a perfect day for riding. I climbed up out of Grand Coulee-- at least 10-12 miles until I reached the rim of the plateau and looked straight , I mean straight, 10 miles down into Wilbur. After joining up with US Route 2 and lunch in Wilbur at the Rendezvous Cafe. I rode another 30 miles on to Davenport, then finally another 27 miles onto Medicine Lake. The shoulder on US 2 is wide and safe, and with the exception of some pave mt cracks was a bike superhighway-- The terrain changed significantly from rolling wheat fields, through high plains pine scattered sparse forests to a rolling range land. I witnessed 3 juvenile red tail hawks learning how to hunt, chasing prey in a field, each one rolling up in the air above the other two and then diving back down onto the hapless rabbit or groundhog or whatever it was they were chasing.

As I rolled into Medicine Lake, I was chased by a big dog at mile #72 and was able to gear down and outrun him, as fortunately I heard him before I got to him! I also watched deer, heron and osprey as I came into town.

I have made a new friend, Sandy Pfeiffer, who is a www.warmshowers.org member in Medical Lake and works at Eastern State Washington hospital here-- she has been a fantastic host-- had a cold beer and a delicious meal prepared for my arrival... I can't thank her enough for her hospitality and wish her well with her upcoming tour plans. Tomorrow will be something of a recovery day-- a visit to REI, the One World Cafe and maybe some bike stores to reconsider my handlebars and stem configuration which need a bit of an adjustment.

Day 7 Monday 7/13/09

2009-07-14T22:50:00.000-07:00

Day 7 Monday 7/13/09

Bridgeport to Gramd Coulee Dam, WA

42 Miles

280 total miles

?? calories (Heart Rate Monitor not working!)

Was glad to have waited the extra day to make the trek from Chief Joseph Dam to Grand Coulee Dam, as this morning was a steady cool sprinkle which turned into a steady cool drizzle and which by the end of the ride was a soaking rain. This was good, as much of the ride was uphill, climbing up out of the Columbia valley onto a high volcanic basalt plateau. There were several dead rattlers squashed on the roadside-- no live ones to be seen-- this is usually dry and hot country, but remarkably there are significant stands of dry farmed wheat cultivated here. As I descended back into the Columbia valley I rode under the snapping, popping, sizzling high tension lines coming out of the dam. So BIG! So much power coming out of these facilities! Decided to spend the night here in Grand Coulee and dry my gear out in a motel room. A good choice, as I learned the next day about the climb out of the Columbia valley that lay in store for me!

2009-07-12T19:27:00.001-07:00

Day 6 Sunday 7/12/09

Pateros to Bridgeport, WA

26 Miles, lazy day!

238 total miles

1800 calories

Rode through orchards & migrant camps to Chief Joseph Dam

After a relaxing breakfast in Pateros, rode to Brewster and visited the nice people at the local hospital to check out my hand (it's fine!) and stopped by the hardware store for some superglue to close the skin up since they couldn't stich anything 3 days later. The valley here opens up as you cross the Columbia at Brewster and weave your way along to Bridgeport through some cherry orchards and tent settlements. The town of Bridgeport is now pretty much a migrant settlement area, with several tiendas and mexican cafe's lining the main streets. The campsite just 2 miles above the 25 penstock Chief Joseph Dam is a quiet refuge, with shady trees, boat docks, a swimming beach and a nearby public golf course if you like that sort of thing! All in all a low-key, lazy Sunday afternoon. The promised rains of Sunday night never came until the early hours on Monday. I awoke to the sounds of shotguns on Monday morning and all I can figure is that it's dove hunting season in Washington.

Day 5 Saturday 7/11/09

2009-07-12T09:17:00.000-07:00

Day 5 Saturday 7/11/09
Happy Birthday Finn!
Winthrop to Pateros, WA down Methow River Valley
58 Miles
212 total miles
3100 calories
HOT- 95-100 F

Wended my way down the Methow River Valley from above Winthrop through the very touristic rustic mastic plastic village of Winthrop. It was full of leather clad bikers up from Seattle (the ones who thundered past me on the pass!) for the weekend and the typical restaurants, boutiques, galleries and t-shirt shops. Visited the grocery store and the post office on my out of town and took the local Wintrhop-Twisp road on the "other" side of the river. Very enjoyable scenery, nice view of the valley and easy riding without the traffic of WA Rt. 20. Made it to Twisp where I visited the local pharmacy, picked up some stuff for my hand and while standing in the shade on the sidewalk met a couple of very interesting people, the first being Stevie Lee Love Life Fugate who is probably one of the longest walking men on the planet: www.trailtherapy.com
Stevie Lee's story is one of sadness and recovery as he has criss-crossed this great country of ours for almost 10 years and logged over 21,000 miles on foot. He is a modern man, carries a cell phone a laptop, keeps a blog and talks to people as he goes. He was interviewed by CPB's Hearing Voices program not long ago and inspires many in his journey of healing. He is originally from Vero Beach, FL where my Mom and Dad spend their winters and lost a son to suicide and later a daughter to a drug overdose. Through these incredible trials, he has sought meaning in life through spreading the message of loving life every day, and carries his message everywhere he walks and to anyone who will listen.

The other traveler I met was Andrew Aranyosi (that's "Goldsmith" in Hungarian, I think) from Steamboat Springs who was headed towards Washington pass on his bike after doing a northwrd sweep up through Yellowstone, Glacier and then west across Montana, Idaho and Washington. Keep riding Andrew!

Took a cool-down break in the chill river Methow in Carlton next to the bridge where the locals go to the swimmin' hole. Met a group of naturopathy students from Seattle who were doing field research in the Methow valley-- interesting group who understand the value of preserving the species we may all depend on for yet to be discovered cures someday as well as those tried-and-true. Talked to some drift boaters who told me about the cut-throat and rainbow stocks along this beautiful river. They are hitting stone flies and also small hook (#24) patterns right now. Mostly roll casting to pockets along the edges of this clean, fast flowing current.

Pushed through many fruit orchards (pear, cherry, apple) on the way down through Methow on the way to Pateros. Crossed many bridges, each more breathtaking and challenging than the one before. The road always narrows at bridges, and one has to keep an eye out for hazards, while at the same time wanting to look up and down stream! Such difficult choices! I passed the turn-off for Alta Lake State Park Campground 3 miles outside of Pateros, based on some advice I had recieved that I could camp in the municipal park at lake's edge in Pateros-- which I found out was a gravel pad next to the street for $25! So after a big meal, I put my sorry ass back on the bike for a steep 4 mile climb back up to Alta Lake, where I arrived absolutely exhausted at the park at 9:30. The sounds around me ( until way past curfew!) were those of the United Nations-- the families camping there were speaking Arabic, Spanish, Japanese, Russian and the children were almost all speaking English to one another! Some big groups-- lots of laughter, souting, games being played and all kinds of carrying on. Were it not for my exhaustion and my earplugs I would not have gotten much rest, but I soon conked out and woke this Sunday morning at 7 to ride back down into Pateros to coffee, eat and connect at the highly recommended Sweet River Bakery. Today I expect to head in the direction of Grand Coulee. Not sure how far I will get, but the weather is overcast and much cooler than yesterday-- showers, maybe? I am looking forward to a good ride!

Day 4 Friday July 10, 2009

2009-07-12T09:09:00.001-07:00

Day 4 Friday July 10, 2009
Granite Creek to Winthrop, WA
42 miles
153 Trip miles
4300 calories

Today was a big push-- after camping off the road on very rocky terrain, I got up and faced the climb ahead-- two mountain passes -- Rainy Pass at about 4800 feet and Washington Pass at about 5400 feet. It was climbing almost all the way to the top. I had to stop and take frequent breaks as the morning sun heated things up quite a bit. All the while passing through spectacular scenery-- high peaks all around me in the 8's and 9's with snowfilled cirques and glaciers. Quite breathtaking. I have also come to the conclusion that everyone is simply trying to get places too fast. And in such vehicles-- full rolling houses, towing SUV's, towing boats, jetskis, ATV's, ...anything with a V, it's on that highway. And the brain splitting concussion of a pack of Harley's passing by is enough to hemmorhage on the spot! I'm not sure that 2 gulf wars have taught us anything about carbon footprint. People are simply tearing through these parks on their way (presumably) to some place better. And throwing their trash out the window. Washington could definitely use a bottle law to reinforce what many of these people never learned in kindergarten. I could have filled 100 bags with what I saw. Such a shame to litter our national parks and forest so... And yet, the Forest and Park services are somewhat at fault... With all the cutbacks in budgets, trash receptacles are few and far between. Even in fee areas where you pay for the use privilege, it is sometimes hard to find them... So... After about 4 hours and 20 miles I busted onto the top of Washington pass--it was my plan to lunch there- but the mosquitoes also thought they might do the same. I hadn't experienced such voraciousness since my last visit to Maine! A quickly devoured lunch and I was on my way to the descent. 20 or so miles of downhill and then some run out found me in Mazama, where the quaintest of western barn board country stores offered the coldest drinks. It was a tiny village, but the store offered mostly natural and organic fare for , well, tourist prices. But who wasn't hungry and thirsty after 2 days in the park with no fresh provisions and willing to pay Hector's ransom for some good stuff? I met Bill and Linda there and we enjoyed some beers and sandwiches together.
Tonight we pulled into the Bicycle Barn, http://barnbicyclecamping.blogspot.com/
hosted by the kindest folks, Jim and Jan Gregg, who have a very casual setup on their farmette halfway between Mazama and Winthrop. Had a great solar hot water shower, good meal, relaxing conversation and now some blogging time. All in all a great day.

Day 3 Thurday July 9, 2009

2009-07-12T09:05:00.000-07:00

Day 3 Thurday July 9, 2009
Happy Birthday Richard (78) and Elaine (75)!!! Star-matched Lovers!
Newhalem to Granite Creek, WA
26 miles
111 Trip miles
3000 calories

Today was a bit challenging wit several hill climbs in succession as I wound my way up into the park. Climbed up past the Gorge powerhouse to the Gorge Lake overlook, then continued up the Skagit Drainage to the Diablo Dam and Diablo overlook. I met three other cycle tourists-- a couple from Langley, BC, Bill and Linda Pound, who are veteran tourists and doing a 2 week out and back loop from their home, and a 28 year old named Gary who is headed to Boston. I was very tempted to spend the night on the shores of Diablo Lake at Colonial Creek Campground where Bill and Linda were putting up for the night, but thought better of it, knowing that I had some good miles left in me. That decision also meant that I would need to push beyond the National Park boundary and find a makeshift campsite in the adjacent Okanogan National forest. I continued to ride, up successive climbs and descents, past the Ross Lake dam and overlooks-- some spectacular scenery, which will need to be uploaded at a later time when I can find a PC to use. Stopped by the roadside to take advantage of a refreshing ice-cold cascade pouring off the rocks. Had the 10 second timer all set to go on the camera for posterity's sake and ran over to the shower, slipped on the rocks and landed palm down on a sharp rock, putting a good puncture in my hand! The picture above is of me, either falling down or getting up (see the yellow shirt and the black ass?)! A little iodine and 2x2 bandage and we're back on the bike-- so much for the theatrics!

Day 2 Wednesday 7/8/09

2009-07-12T09:02:00.000-07:00

Rasar State Park to Newhalem Campground - North Cascades National Park
41 Miles
85 Trip miles
2600 Calories

Slept like Rip Van Winkle--woke up to the sound of an air raid siren @ 5:30 a.m.-- not what you would expect for such a rustic setting. It went on for about 30 seconds, then shut off, only to resume again for about 10 seconds more, then shut off again. Cause for alarm? After the second burst I pondered what could it mean? We're on too high ground for a tsunami. Perhaps one of the dams upriver had burst? Not a fire-- it rained all night. Maybe an impending earthquake? Impossible to know these things in advance. I settled back down, covered my head and waited for the surging water to wash me away, drifted back to sleep-- besides what could one man on a bicycle near the valley bottom do to escape? I had a pretty good idea of where I was relative to "high ground" -- at least 2 miles, so resigned myself to my fate. I fell back to sleep, fitfully I must say, and re woke about 8 a.m. with a the certainty that I had just been tattooed with a giant Tony the tiger, "They're Great!" across my chest. I had fought with the tattooist for some time, knowing for sure that it wasn't the tattoo of choice. He kept telling me I would learn to like it, and besides, Kellogg's might sponsor me.... You figure it out!

Stopped at a local grocery store in Concrete where people kept asking me where I was coming from and where I was gong to. Mostly folks coming out of the store on their breaks to smoke and shoot the shinola. I met one guy who is the support driver for a group of 3 cyclists who will surely be passing me sometime today. They are riding light and plan on crossing the country in 30 days-- that will amount to a lot of 150 mile days and few breaks-- I wish them luck! He offered to carry my bags over the pass ahead, but I told him that would be cheating, now wouldn't it?

Stopped for lunch at Howard Miller Steelhead Park on the banks of the mighty Skagit. I am sure that my fisherman brother Tom would revel in this place. Deep, fast running water and ichthyous cousins treading water against the current. I had planned to call my sister Sudi who turned 50 today. Out of cell coverage and probably will be through the park until Winthrop. Happy birthday Sudi!!! Miss you.

Met another group of cyclists-- 3 people traveling light, with a support vehicle which drives ahead and sets up camp for them and stays behind in the morning to break camp after they leave. Overall they will be riding 70-80 milers a day through the mountains and 100 to 150 mile days on the plains. They hope to do the whole route to Bar Harbor in 30 days, which I think even with the support they have is pretty ambitious, but they are finely tuned and well-trained, goal oriented athletes, so who knows? Their blog is

Spent a wonderful evening in the forest in Newhalem campground surrounded by old growth trees: western red cedar, western hemlock, douglas fir, pacific dogwood, broad leaf maples, vine maples, dagger ferns, braken ferns and all kinds of mossy undergrowth and the occasional wildflower popping up under the somber canopy. I pretty much had the place to myself and tented on a soft, plush carpet of moss. Comfy, yes!

Day 1 Tuesday 7/7/09

2009-07-12T09:01:00.001-07:00

Day 1 Tuesday 7/7/09
Anacortes to Rasar State Park, WA--
44 miles
3600 calories

Enjoyed the cool overcast day with perfect temp for riding... Started the day at 61 degrees and finished somewhere in the high 50's. Set up camp just before the rains came and went into "town" of Birdsview, which consisted of a small convenience store and the Birdsview Brewery where I sampled some of the brewmaster's finest: a Sweet Brown Molly- a malty dark beer with overtones of molasses (which he adds to each batch) and a wonderfully refreshing Ditsy Blonde Ale, which is flavored with 2# of lime peel per 6 barrel (33 gallons/barrel) batch. Met some nice folks in the brewery including a couple who keep a local winery-- she is from Ogden and works as a PT in nearby Burlington. A late and dusky return to the campsite leaves me with a feast of hotdogs mixed into Zatarain's dirty rice! Salty but satisfying. My campsite is nestled amongst the old cedars and other majestic old growth and I am not far from the mighty Skagit River, which flows emerald green through this lush valley. A peaceful place to rest these bones as the rain taps on the tent.

2009-07-07T10:34:00.001-07:00

Underway! Standing at pier 1 at the port of Anacortes...it's a heavy bike!

Anacortes, WA

2009-07-05T20:34:00.000-07:00

Began this morning in beautiful Olympia, state capital of Washington where I attended the weekly meeting of the Olympia Friends congregation and made some new friends. Afterwards, I dorve northward to Anacortes where I checked into the world famous San Juan Motel for the evening, meet with niece Leilani and her friend Mike (photo) , then to get a little rest, get organized and do some work before setting out tomorrow. There are more things to get rid of, put into boxes and lighten the load. The snowcapped peaks of the Cascades taunted and beckoned me from the distance as I entered the Skagit River valley today. I will ascend from sea level to about 5,600 feet in the next couple of days and expect to work pretty hard to get there.

Mount Rainier

2009-07-04T12:23:00.001-07:00

... a driveby shooting...

2009-07-03T09:51:00.001-07:00

Alright folks, after sufficient noodling around I have figured out how to post via mobile device!

Driving to the coast

2009-07-03T08:30:00.000-07:00

Spent a nice evening with friends Chandler and Amy and their two cute, too-cute, kids Finn and Camilla. Met another new friend, Don, who is in the process of setting up a new international bacchelaureate school in Boise public schools through the Idaho public schools charter program. A very exciting and ambitious project that will bring a new and attainable IB program to Boise, whose only existing program is Riverstone, a private academy.

Drove as far as Yakima last night, through beautiful wine country at sunset. The contrast of green lushness in the Yakima valley with the desert hills behind is remarkable. It is cherry season here and the crop is bountiful.

Today I drive through the cascades, past Rainier, out to Aberdeen and Ocean Shores. See you on the beach!

Ready, Set, Almost...

2009-06-30T22:46:00.000-07:00

The past few days have been very full getting ready. The new front 48 tooth chainring is installed, the bike is tuned and ready to ride and all my gear is in piles around my living room. It is truly remarkable when you evaluate the items "required" for typical daily existence vs. what is required for a bike trip. Everything weighs a ton (not including the rider!) and I have been going through a difficult editing process to get the bag weights down. As I have shopped for some of the gear I didn't already have or that I had but which weighed too much, I figured that the cost of reducing 1 lb. is about $100 when it comes to things like tents, sleeping bags, stoves, sleeping pads, etc. I am hoping to have no more than 10 lbs each on the rear panniers, about 5 lbs each on the fronts and another 5 lbs or so for the tent. The numbers are creeping up, though, as I keep adding "one more thing." I thought only a very short while about putting some fenders on the bike, but changed my mind quickly. I will probably regret not having them on rainy days, but I am going to be optimistic and plan on nothing but sunshine! I even found myself counting out vitamin pills into bags that I am going to send ahead to some stage points along with some other gear for later in the trip.

Tomorrow morning I hit the road for the drive up to Seattle area. I am delivering a car to a friend who is moving to Bellingham from SLC, will do a little work and some sightseeing over the weekend and will then depart from Anacortes on Monday.

t minus 4 days

2009-06-27T22:07:00.000-07:00

Soon I will embark on a journey across the northern tier of states, and Ontario in a re-generation of trust cycle. In other words, I'm getting my 235 lbs of hulk on a bike and riding across America and Canada! Among my goals is to encourage frozen hearts and pocket-books to loosen to the needs of others, returning to past patterns of generosity and attitudes to "those who need it more than we do."

My chosen charities for this journey are (more details to come on how to help on future blog posts):

The American Heart Association
http://www.americanheart.org/

The National Alliance for Mental Illness
http://www.nami.org/

World Vision
http://www.worldvision.org/

Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation
http://www.jdrf.org/

I hope that during this passage you will "ride along with me" in actuality or in spirit, and that you may from time-to-time check in with me on this blog to push me along as I (slowly!) chart my progress across the continent.

For those of you who know me well, you might understand well why I am choosing to do this journey. For those of you who may not know me quite as well, perhaps the idea is less clear. Above all, I seek to re-discover that bright, giving and regenerative part of America which has been so badly battered recently through our epoch of war, neglect, greed, selfishness, and entitlement which has for many resulted in a sense of loss and insufficiency as they struggle to regain their sense of purpose in a disjointed society. It is my hope to meet people from all walks of life along this journey with an open heart and to learn as much as I can about them, and relate, from time-to-time their stories and passions.